What Is Di-C12-15 Alketh-4 Phosphate?
Di-C12-15 Alketh-4 Phosphate is a man-made ingredient created from fatty alcohols that come mainly from coconut and palm oils. Chemists react these natural oils with ethylene oxide to build a short chain of ethoxylated alcohols, then link two of those chains to a small phosphate group. The result is a molecule with one end that loves water and another that loves oil, a balance that makes it very handy in skin and hair products.
The cosmetic world started using phosphate esters like this one in the late 1970s when brands looked for gentler alternatives to older detergents. Over time Di-C12-15 Alketh-4 Phosphate proved it could clean without stripping and could also help keep oil and water mixed, so formulators added it to more and more products.
Production happens in stages inside stainless-steel reactors. First the fatty alcohols are ethoxylated under controlled heat and pressure. Next phosphoric acid is added, forming the diester. Finally the mixture is neutralized and purified before it ships out as a clear to pale yellow liquid.
You will most often see this ingredient in facial cleansers, micellar waters, sulfate-free shampoos, body washes, makeup removers, light lotions and some styling gels. It is prized in formulas that aim for a gentle feel and a balanced pH.
Di-C12-15 Alketh-4 Phosphate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Here is what this multitasker brings to a formula
- Cleansing – its water-loving and oil-loving ends surround dirt oil and makeup so they can be rinsed away leaving skin or hair feeling fresh but not tight
- Emulsifying – it helps keep water and oil phases blended which stops creams lotions or washes from separating and ensures even delivery of active ingredients every time you use the product
Who Can Use Di-C12-15 Alketh-4 Phosphate
This gentle cleansing agent is generally well tolerated by all skin types including sensitive, oily, dry and combination skin. Because it has a mild action and a balanced pH it rarely triggers stinging or tightness, making it a good choice for reactive complexions. There are no reports of it being unsuitable for acne-prone skin, though people dealing with very dry or compromised skin barriers may wish to pair it with extra moisturizers for best comfort.
The ingredient is produced from plant-derived fatty alcohols and synthesized without animal by-products so it is considered suitable for vegetarians and vegans.
Current data show no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when using cosmetics containing Di-C12-15 Alketh-4 Phosphate. This statement is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare product past a doctor just to be safe.
Di-C12-15 Alketh-4 Phosphate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so there is no increased risk of sunburn linked to its use. As with any cleanser or emulsifier, avoid getting the raw ingredient in the eyes because it can cause temporary irritation.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Di-C12-15 Alketh-4 Phosphate can vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects that could occur, but they are uncommon when the ingredient is formulated correctly and used as directed.
- Temporary redness or irritation if the formula is left on the skin for prolonged periods
- Mild eye stinging if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Contact dermatitis in rare cases for individuals with a specific sensitivity to phosphate esters or ethoxylated ingredients
If you notice any of the above effects discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Di-C12-15 Alketh-4 Phosphate is highly water soluble and designed to lift oil away from the skin rather than sit on it so it has little tendency to clog pores. While it is made from fatty alcohols those fats are chemically altered into a cleansing molecule that rinses off cleanly. For that reason it earns a low score of 1.
People who are prone to acne or breakouts can generally use products containing this ingredient without concern.
Comedogenicity is even lower when the ingredient appears in wash-off products like cleansers and shampoos compared with leave-on lotions since contact time is shorter.
Summary
Di-C12-15 Alketh-4 Phosphate serves mainly as a cleanser and emulsifier. Its split personality molecule loves both water and oil which lets it wrap around dirt makeup and excess sebum so they rinse away easily while also keeping watery and oily phases blended in a stable formula.
You will see it in a fair number of gentle face washes micellar waters and sulfate-free shampoos but it is not as widespread as household names like sodium laureth sulfate because it costs more and is usually reserved for milder premium formulas.
Current research and decades of safe use show that this ingredient poses very low risk for irritation or pore clogging. As with any new cosmetic though it is smart to perform a quick patch test when trying a product that contains it just to be on the safe side.