What Is Di-C12-15 Alkyl Maleate?
Di-C12-15 Alkyl Maleate is an ester created when mid-length fatty alcohols (those with 12 to 15 carbon atoms) react with maleic acid. The fatty alcohol part usually comes from coconut or palm kernel oil while maleic acid is produced through the oxidation of natural hydrocarbons. When the two meet under heat with a small amount of catalyst they bond to form a clear, oil-like liquid that is then filtered and deodorized for use in cosmetics.
Chemists began exploring this molecule in the late 1980s as the beauty industry looked for lighter alternatives to heavy mineral oils. Its smooth glide and low scent quickly made it a favorite in silicone-free formulas and it has held a steady place in modern product lines ever since.
You will spot Di-C12-15 Alkyl Maleate in many lightweight lotions, daily moisturizers, facial serums, primers, sunscreens, liquid foundations, cleansing oils and even some hair conditioners. Anywhere a brand wants a silky feel without the weight of traditional oils, this ingredient can step in.
Di-C12-15 Alkyl Maleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Here is how this multitasker improves a formula
- Skin conditioning: coats the skin with a thin flexible layer that leaves it feeling soft and supple while helping reinforce the surface barrier
- Emollient: slips into the spaces between dry or rough skin cells, smoothing out texture and reducing flakiness without a greasy afterfeel
- Solvent: dissolves oil-soluble actives, pigments and sunscreens so they spread evenly, which boosts product stability and ease of application
Who Can Use Di-C12-15 Alkyl Maleate
This silky ester is lightweight so it suits normal, combination and dry skin that craves softness without a greasy feel. It can also work for oily skin since it absorbs quickly, though those who clog easily may prefer to test it in a spot product before diving into a full routine. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because it has low scent and no active acids that tingle.
The fatty alcohols used to make Di-C12-15 Alkyl Maleate are plant derived in most modern supply chains which makes the ingredient appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. Always check the brand’s sourcing statement if you need full confirmation.
No studies flag Di-C12-15 Alkyl Maleate as a concern for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Its large molecular size keeps it on the surface of the skin rather than letting it enter the bloodstream. Still this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should clear all skincare choices with a doctor just to be safe.
The molecule does not absorb UV light so it does not make skin more sensitive to the sun. It is odorless and stable in both high and low pH formulas. That means it rarely interferes with actives like vitamin C or niacinamide if they share the same bottle.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to Di-C12-15 Alkyl Maleate differ from person to person. The points below list potential side effects but most people will not run into them when using well formulated products.
- Mild skin irritation such as temporary redness or itching on very reactive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in the rare case someone is sensitive to fatty alcohol esters
- Breakouts or congestion for users who are extremely acne prone and find any emollient too rich
- Eye stinging if the product migrates into the eyes during application or cleansing
If you notice any of these issues stop use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Di-C12-15 Alkyl Maleate earns a low score because its branched structure and mid chain length keep it lightweight and fast absorbing instead of sitting in pores like heavier oils. Most literature and finished product reviews report minimal clogging, although very acne prone users who react to any emollient could still notice congestion in rich formulas. Overall it is considered suitable for breakout prone skin.
Comedogenicity can climb when the ester is combined with high levels of waxes or butters, so the full formula matters as much as the single ingredient.
Summary
Di-C12-15 Alkyl Maleate conditions skin, acts as an emollient, and serves as a solvent. It forms a thin breathable layer that smooths rough patches, slips into tiny gaps between cells to soften texture, and dissolves oil soluble actives or pigments so they spread evenly for a silky feel.
The ingredient enjoys steady popularity in modern lightweight moisturizers, sunscreens, primers and foundations where brands want the glide of an oil without greasiness.
Safety data class it as low risk with very rare irritation or allergy reports. Still individual skin can differ so patch testing any new product that contains Di-C12-15 Alkyl Maleate is a smart step.