Diammonium Dithiodiglycolate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Diammonium Dithiodiglycolate?

Diammonium Dithiodiglycolate is the diammonium salt of dithiodiglycolic acid, a molecule that contains two sulfur atoms linked by a disulfide bond and two acetate groups. It is fully synthetic, created in controlled factory settings rather than harvested from plants or animals. Chemists first explored its use in the 1940s when the beauty industry was searching for gentler options to reshape hair. To make it, manufacturers oxidize glycolic acid to form dithiodiglycolic acid, then neutralize the acid with ammonia, yielding a water-soluble powder or liquid concentrate.

You will most often find Diammonium Dithiodiglycolate in salon and at-home hair treatment kits that promise either bouncy waves or sleek straight locks. It appears in permanent wave lotions, chemical relaxers, hair texturizers and follow-up neutralizing solutions, frequently combined with conditioners that help offset processing stress.

Diammonium Dithiodiglycolate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In cosmetic formulas this ingredient has one key job.

Hair Waving Or Straightening: Diammonium Dithiodiglycolate breaks and reforms the disulfide bonds inside hair strands. By temporarily softening these internal links it lets stylists or users mold the hair into new shapes, whether tight curls or a smooth straight finish. Once the desired shape is set and the product is rinsed and neutralized the bonds lock back in place, giving longer-lasting style results compared with heat styling alone.

Who Can Use Diammonium Dithiodiglycolate

This ingredient is used on hair rather than facial skin, yet it still comes in contact with the scalp. Most people, whether they have dry, oily or combination skin, can tolerate it when the formula is used as directed. Those with very sensitive or broken skin on the scalp should be cautious because the chemical action can sting or worsen existing irritation.

Diammonium Dithiodiglycolate is completely synthetic and contains no animal-derived substances, so on its own it is suitable for both vegetarians and vegans. Keep in mind that the finished product might include conditioners or proteins that come from animals, so always check the full ingredient list if that is a concern.

There is limited research on use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. No specific warnings exist, but because the ingredient is a strong reducing agent and produces a sulfur smell that some people find unpleasant, pregnant or nursing women should consult their doctor before using any hair treatment that contains it. This information is not medical advice, rather a reminder to play it safe and ask a professional.

Diammonium Dithiodiglycolate does not make skin or hair more sensitive to sunlight, so extra sun protection is not required after use. As with all chemical hair services, proper ventilation and timing help keep the process comfortable and effective.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Diammonium Dithiodiglycolate vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects, but most users experience none of them when the product is formulated and applied correctly.

  • Scalp redness or stinging particularly if the product is left on longer than recommended
  • Allergic contact dermatitis resulting in itching or rash for those sensitive to the compound
  • Chemical burns in rare cases of misuse or excessive concentration
  • Dry brittle hair if the neutralizing step is skipped or delayed
  • Eye irritation if fumes or splashes reach the eyes
  • Unpleasant sulfur odor that may linger briefly after treatment

If any negative reaction occurs stop using the product immediately rinse thoroughly with water and seek medical attention if symptoms persist or worsen.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5. Diammonium Dithiodiglycolate is a highly water-soluble salt that rinses away easily and contains no oily or waxy materials that could plug pores. Because it is designed for short contact on hair rather than prolonged wear on facial skin it presents virtually no risk of clogging follicles. It is considered suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts.

Since the ingredient is typically used with gloves and washed out quickly any residue left on the skin is minimal further reducing comedogenic concerns.

Summary

Diammonium Dithiodiglycolate reshapes hair by breaking and re-forming the internal disulfide bonds that give strands their natural texture letting users achieve lasting curls waves or straight styles after neutralization. Although effective it remains a niche ingredient mostly found in professional permanent wave kits and a limited number of at-home relaxers so the average consumer may not encounter it often.

When formulated and applied as directed it is generally safe though it is a strong chemical that can irritate skin or eyes if misused. As with any new hair treatment choose reputable products follow timing instructions and consider a patch test to rule out individual sensitivities.

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