What Is Diethanolaminooleamide Dea?
Diethanolaminooleamide Dea is a surfactant derived from oleic acid, a fatty acid that naturally occurs in many vegetable oils such as olive and canola. Chemically, it is an amide formed when oleic acid reacts with diethanolamine, creating a molecule that carries both oil-friendly and water-friendly parts. This dual nature makes it valuable for mixing oils with water, a key step in making cleansers and other rinse-off products.
The ingredient gained popularity in the mid-20th century as cosmetic chemists searched for milder alternatives to traditional soaps. By tweaking fatty acids with diethanolamine they discovered compounds that produced abundant foam without stripping skin and hair. Production involves heating refined oleic acid with diethanolamine in the presence of a catalyst until they bond, followed by purification to remove any leftover raw materials. The finished material is a viscous amber liquid that blends easily into water-based formulas.
You will most often spot Diethanolaminooleamide Dea in shampoos, body washes, bubble baths, facial cleansers, liquid hand soaps, shaving creams and some exfoliating scrubs where a rich creamy lather is desired.
Diethanolaminooleamide Dea’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In personal care products this ingredient plays several behind-the-scenes roles that improve how a formula looks feels and performs
- Cleansing: Its surfactant nature helps loosen dirt oil and product buildup so they can be rinsed away leaving skin and hair feeling fresh
- Foam Boosting: It increases the amount and stability of foam giving shampoos and washes that satisfying fluffy lather many users expect
- Viscosity Controlling: It thickens watery formulas so they pour slowly and coat the skin or hair evenly improving ease of use and perceived richness
Who Can Use Diethanolaminooleamide Dea
Because this ingredient is primarily a rinse off surfactant it is generally well tolerated by most skin types including oily, dry and combination. Sensitive or eczema-prone skin may still feel stripped if a formula contains a high concentration, so gentle cleansers that pair it with soothing agents are a safer bet for those groups.
Diethanolaminooleamide Dea is synthesized from plant-derived oleic acid and the laboratory chemical diethanolamine, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. No animal by-products are involved in its manufacture.
Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals are not specifically restricted from using products containing this ingredient, but because diet and hormone changes can make skin more reactive it is wise to run any new cleanser or shampoo past a healthcare professional. This information is educational only and not medical advice.
The ingredient does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, so it is not considered photosensitizing. It is also odorless and free of added fragrance allergens. Those following low-pH routines should note that it works best in mildly acidic to neutral formulas, which lines up with most modern cleansers.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Diethanolaminooleamide Dea vary from person to person. The issues listed below are possible but uncommon, and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used at standard cosmetic levels.
- Skin dryness: As with any surfactant excessive use or high concentrations can remove too much of the skin’s natural oils leading to tightness or flaking
- Eye irritation: Contact with the eyes may cause stinging or redness that usually resolves after thorough rinsing
- Contact dermatitis: Very rare allergic reactions can appear as itching redness or small bumps especially in those with existing sensitivities to alkanolamine compounds
- Scalp irritation: Over-cleansing shampoos that contain this ingredient may trigger itchiness in sensitive scalps if left on for extended periods
- Nitrosamine concern: In the presence of certain preservatives diethanolamine can form trace nitrosamines which are potential carcinogens, though reputable manufacturers minimize this risk through formulation controls
If any burning itching swelling or persistent discomfort occurs discontinue use immediately and seek advice from a healthcare provider
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2/5
Diethanolaminooleamide Dea contains an oleic acid backbone, a fatty component that can in theory clog pores, yet its conversion into a highly water-soluble surfactant and the fact that it is normally used in rinse-off formulas reduce that risk significantly. The molecule does not linger on skin the way pure oils do, so real-world pore blockage is uncommon.
Most people who are prone to acne can use cleansers or shampoos featuring this ingredient without seeing an uptick in breakouts.
As with any fatty-derived surfactant the chance of congestion rises slightly if the product is left on skin for long periods or used in very high concentrations, though these scenarios are unusual in standard personal care routines.
Summary
Diethanolaminooleamide Dea works as a cleansing agent, foam booster and viscosity controller. Its dual oil-loving and water-loving structure lifts away dirt and oil, whips up a stable lather that feels luxurious, then thickens the formula so it dispenses smoothly instead of running through your fingers.
The ingredient enjoyed peak popularity in the late twentieth century when formulators wanted gentler soap alternatives. Today it still appears in many mainstream shampoos and body washes, though newer sulfate-free blends sometimes use other surfactants.
Safety data show it to be low risk for the vast majority of users when formulated correctly, with minor dryness or irritation as the most likely issues. As with any new skincare or haircare product a quick patch test is a smart step before making it part of your regular routine.