Diethyl Trioxopimelate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Diethyl Trioxopimelate?

Diethyl Trioxopimelate is the cosmetic trade name for the compound formally known as heptanedioic acid 2,4,6-trioxo diethyl ester. Chemically it belongs to the family of esters, formed when an organic acid reacts with alcohol. In this case the acid portion is a tricarboxylic segment of heptanedioic acid while the alcohol is ethanol, resulting in a lightweight clear liquid that blends well with oils and silicones.

The ingredient was first explored in the late 1990s by specialty chemical suppliers looking for gentler surface-active agents to improve skin feel in leave-on products. Formulators noticed that when small amounts were added to prototype creams the skin felt smoother and better hydrated. Over time the material moved from laboratory trials into commercial skin care lines as a mild, non-occlusive skin conditioner.

Manufacturing involves controlled esterification: purified heptanedioic acid is combined with food-grade ethanol in the presence of a catalyst, then the mixture is heated under vacuum to remove water and drive the reaction to completion. The crude ester is purified through distillation and filtration to remove any residual acid or alcohol, yielding a high-purity cosmetic ingredient.

Because of its silky finish and compatibility with many bases Diethyl Trioxopimelate is commonly found in moisturizers, anti-aging serums, hydrating masks, after-sun gels and lightweight lotions designed for daily use.

Diethyl Trioxopimelate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skin care products Diethyl Trioxopimelate serves a single primary role: skin conditioning. By forming a thin breathable layer on the skin it helps reduce roughness and improves the overall sensory feel of a formula. This translates to smoother application, a soft touch after the product dries and a subtle boost in surface hydration without heaviness.

Who Can Use Diethyl Trioxopimelate

Diethyl Trioxopimelate is considered gentle enough for most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily skin. Its lightweight non occlusive film leaves skin feeling smooth without trapping excess oil, which makes it a practical choice for those prone to congestion. People with very reactive or highly compromised skin barriers should still proceed with caution, as even mild esters can occasionally trigger irritation in such conditions.

The ingredient is synthesized from mineral or plant based feedstocks and contains no animal derived matter, so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. Because the production process is purely chemical no animal by products are introduced along the way.

Current safety data suggest minimal systemic absorption, so topical use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding is generally viewed as low risk. That said this information is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a qualified health professional before adding new skin care products.

Diethyl Trioxopimelate is not known to increase photosensitivity, and it can safely be used in daytime formulas alongside sunscreen. It is also odorless, making it a good option for people who prefer products without added fragrance.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Individual responses to topical Diethyl Trioxopimelate vary. The following list covers potential side effects that have been reported, though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used at standard cosmetic concentrations

  • Mild transient stinging or burning on application, usually subsiding within minutes
  • Localized redness or irritation in those with a compromised skin barrier
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in extremely rare cases of individual sensitivity
  • Watery eyes or slight irritation if the product migrates into the eye area

If any of these reactions occur discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist or worsen.

Comedogenic Rating

Diethyl Trioxopimelate is rated 1 out of 5 on the comedogenic scale. As a light ester it spreads easily, forms only a breathable film and does not linger in pores the way heavier oils or waxes can. In practice that low tendency to clog pores means the ingredient is generally suitable for people prone to acne or frequent breakouts. Real-world usage shows very few reports of new blemishes linked to the compound, though final product formulation and the mix of other ingredients always matter.

The rating could shift if exceptionally high concentrations were used or if the ester was paired with highly occlusive agents, but at the typical 1-5 % level found in moisturizers and serums the risk remains minimal.

Summary

Diethyl Trioxopimelate is a silky, lightweight skin-conditioning ester that smooths the surface of the skin and boosts the sensory appeal of creams, gels and lotions. It works by laying down a thin non-occlusive layer that leaves skin feeling soft and hydrated while avoiding a greasy residue. Because of that pleasant after-feel formulators reach for it when they want a product to glide nicely and dry quickly, although it is still something of a niche ingredient compared with mainstream emollients like glycerin and dimethicone.

Current safety data and decades of cosmetic use suggest the compound is well tolerated with a very low risk of irritation or pore clogging for most skin types. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to perform a small patch test before full-face application, just to make sure your skin agrees with the formula.

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