What Is Diisostearyl Glutarate?
Diisostearyl Glutarate is an ester created by blending glutaric acid with isostearyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol that can be sourced from plant oils such as coconut or rapeseed. Chemically known as pentanedioic acid, bis(16-methylheptadecyl) ester, it forms a long-chain molecule that feels silky and non-greasy on the skin.
The cosmetic world first adopted this ingredient in the late 20th century when formulators began looking for richer yet lightweight emollients to replace heavier mineral oils. Advances in green chemistry made it easier to derive the raw fatty alcohol from renewable crops, refine it, then react it with glutaric acid under controlled heat and vacuum. The result is a clear to pale-yellow liquid that stays stable over a wide temperature range.
Because of its smooth feel and ability to lock in moisture without clogging pores, Diisostearyl Glutarate shows up in a variety of products. You will most often see it in lipsticks, lip balms, cream blushes, high-end moisturizers, anti-aging serums, overnight masks and body butters. It can also add slip to sunscreens and cushion to foundations.
Diisostearyl Glutarate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient pulls double duty in formulas, making products feel better and perform longer on the skin.
- Skin Conditioning: Forms a soft, protective film that helps reduce water loss so skin stays supple and comfortable. Over time it can improve the look of dry or flaky patches
- Emollient: Fills in tiny spaces between skin cells creating a smoother surface that feels velvety rather than greasy. This gives creams a richer texture and helps makeup glide on evenly
Who Can Use Diisostearyl Glutarate
Thanks to its light non-greasy feel and low chance of clogging pores, Diisostearyl Glutarate suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination and even sensitive or mildly oily skin. Extremely oily or acne-prone complexions might prefer ultra-light esters or gels, but many still tolerate this ingredient well.
The isostearyl alcohol used to make Diisostearyl Glutarate is typically sourced from plant oils like coconut or rapeseed so it is usually suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Anyone following a strict lifestyle should still confirm the brand’s raw material sourcing because synthetic or animal-derived routes are possible, though uncommon.
No research shows that topical Diisostearyl Glutarate poses a risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should have a doctor review their full skincare lineup for extra safety.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also plays nicely with common actives like retinoids, vitamin C and exfoliating acids since it is chemically stable and non-reactive.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Diisostearyl Glutarate vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects yet most users experience none of these issues when the ingredient is formulated and used as intended.
- Mild redness or itching in very sensitive skin
- Rare contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to fatty alcohol derivatives
- Temporary clogged pores or small bumps if applied in multiple heavy layers on extremely oily skin
- Eye irritation if a product containing the ingredient migrates into the eye area
If any discomfort or visible reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Diisostearyl Glutarate receives a low score because its large, branched ester molecules tend to sit on the skin surface rather than slipping into pores where clogs form. It offers a soft finish without the heavy occlusion seen in highly comedogenic oils. Most clinical and anecdotal reports show minimal acne flare-ups even in combination skin, though very oily users may notice congestion if they layer multiple rich products containing this ester.
Overall it is considered suitable for people who are prone to breakouts yet still want a cushiony feel in their skin care or makeup.
Formulation level matters: products that use the ingredient at over 20 percent or combine it with other heavy fats may raise the risk of blocked pores.
Summary
Diisostearyl Glutarate serves mainly as a skin conditioning agent and emollient, creating a smooth breathable film that slows water loss and fills tiny gaps between skin cells. This dual action leaves skin feeling soft and makeup gliding on evenly while avoiding a greasy afterfeel.
It is a quiet workhorse rather than a headline star, showing up most often in lipsticks, balms, creamy foundations and premium moisturizers where its silky slip can really shine. Though not as famous as ingredients like hyaluronic acid it remains popular with formulators who need a light but nourishing ester that plays well with actives.
Safety data and long-term use in cosmetics suggest a very low risk of irritation or sensitization. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product that features Diisostearyl Glutarate especially if you have a history of sensitivities.