What Is Diisotridecyl Lauroyl Glutamate?
Diisotridecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is a blend of mono and di esters produced when isostearyl alcohol reacts with lauroyl glutamic acid, a fatty acid derivative of the natural amino acid glutamic acid. The result is a mild, oil-loving compound that carries both water-friendly and oil-friendly parts, making it useful in personal care formulas.
The ingredient grew popular in the early 2000s as brands looked for plant-based, skin-gentle alternatives to harsher synthetic surfactants. Manufacturers typically start with coconut or palm-derived lauric acid, ferment it to create lauroyl glutamic acid, then combine it with isostearyl alcohol sourced from vegetable oils. A controlled esterification step bonds the molecules, producing a clear to pale yellow liquid or soft wax that is easily blended into creams, gels and lotions.
You will most often find Diisotridecyl Lauroyl Glutamate in facial cleansers, micellar waters, lightweight moisturizers, serum-gel hybrids, sheet mask essences and leave-on skin treatments aimed at sensitive or dehydrated skin. Its multitasking nature allows formulators to cut back on extra emulsifiers or humectants, giving products a cleaner label.
Diisotridecyl Lauroyl Glutamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skin care formulas this ingredient pulls triple duty, helping products look, feel and perform better
- Emulsion stabilising: Keeps oil and water phases mixed so creams stay smooth and do not separate during shelf life, improving texture and spreadability
- Humectant: Attracts and holds water on the skin surface, boosting immediate hydration and leaving skin feeling soft and supple
- Cleansing: Breaks up dirt, oil and makeup while remaining gentle, making it ideal for daily face washes that do not strip natural moisture
Who Can Use Diisotridecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
This ingredient suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily skin thanks to its lightweight feel and balanced cleansing and hydrating properties. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it well because it lacks harsh sulfates, though extremely reactive skin should still proceed cautiously due to any surfactant having the potential to disturb a compromised barrier.
Diisotridecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is made from plant sourced fatty acids and vegetable derived alcohol so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians. If a brand uses palm oil as a starting material some consumers may wish to confirm the sustainability credentials of that supply chain.
Current safety data show no specific concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding users when the ingredient is used in rinse off or leave on skincare at customary levels. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a qualified healthcare provider before adding new cosmetic products, just to be safe.
The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and there is no known impact on photosensitivity. It also plays nicely with most other common skincare actives, which helps formulators pair it with exfoliating acids, retinoids or vitamin C without destabilising the finished product.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Diisotridecyl Lauroyl Glutamate differ between individuals. The following points outline potential side effects that could occur, although they are uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used as intended.
- Transient redness or warmth especially on very sensitive or freshly exfoliated skin
- Mild stinging around the eyes if the product is not fully rinsed away
- Contact irritation presenting as itching or slight burning in people with damaged skin barriers
- Allergic reaction such as rash or hives in the rare case of a true sensitivity to glutamate based surfactants
If any of these reactions occur discontinue use immediately and seek guidance from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5 (low likelihood of clogging pores)
Diisotridecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is an amino acid based ester that remains mostly in the water phase of a formula and rinses off cleanly, so it is unlikely to linger on skin or block follicles. Its lightweight character and good rinse-off profile set it apart from heavier oils and waxes that are more prone to cause congestion.
With such a low score it is generally considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
Keep in mind that the finished product’s pore-clogging potential also depends on the other ingredients, so evaluate the full ingredient list if you are highly sensitive to comedogens.
Summary
Diisotridecyl Lauroyl Glutamate stabilises emulsions, draws moisture to the skin and provides gentle cleansing all in one molecule. Its balanced lipophilic and hydrophilic ends sit at the oil-water border to keep creams uniform, the glutamate portion attracts water for a quick hydration boost and its mild surfactant action lifts away grime without stripping.
Although it is not yet a household name it is steadily gaining traction in modern formulas aimed at sensitive skin and minimalist labels.
Safety data place it in the low-risk category for irritation or toxicity. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to patch test a product first to make sure your skin agrees with it.