What Is Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Polyricinoleate?
Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Polyricinoleate is a specialty ester created by linking two molecules of dilinoleyl alcohol and finishing the chain with polyhydroxystearic acid, a castor oil derivative. The raw materials trace back to plant oils rich in linoleic acid and ricinoleic acid, so the ingredient is considered naturally sourced yet chemically processed. It emerged in the early 2000s when formulators searched for glossy, long-wearing alternatives to petroleum-based binders for color cosmetics. Production begins with dimerizing linoleic acid to build a long, stable backbone. This is reduced to dilinoleyl alcohol, then reacted with polyhydroxystearic acid to cap both ends, yielding a viscous, clear to pale yellow liquid. Because of its smooth feel and strong adhesion, it shows up in lipsticks, lip glosses, balms, mascaras, foundations, cream blushes, high-shine skincare masks and rich moisturizers that aim for a cushiony finish.
Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Polyricinoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas this multi-tasking ester brings two key technical perks
- Binding – anchors pigments, powders and other actives so they stay evenly dispersed, improving color payoff and wear time while reducing fallout or streaking
- Plasticiser – softens and adds flexibility to wax or film-forming systems, giving products a smoother application, a supple finish and better resistance to cracking or flaking throughout the day
Who Can Use Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Polyricinoleate
This ester works well for most skin types including normal, dry and mature skin because it helps lock in moisture and leaves a smooth cushioned feel. Those with very oily or acne-prone skin might want to check how it performs for them since its rich texture can feel heavy in high-wax lipsticks or balms, which could contribute to clogged pores in some cases. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it because the molecule is large and stays on the surface rather than penetrating deeply.
Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Polyricinoleate is plant derived so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. The starting materials come from vegetable oils and no animal by-products are used in its manufacture.
Pregnant and breastfeeding consumers can typically use products containing this ingredient because it is used externally and has no known hormone activity. This is not medical advice so anyone who is expecting or nursing should ask their doctor before adding new cosmetics just to be safe.
The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity and has no known interactions with sunlight or UV treatments. It can be used year round without special sun precautions beyond your usual SPF routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Polyricinoleate vary between individuals. The points below list potential but uncommon side effects when the ingredient is used as intended by reputable manufacturers. Most users will not notice any of these issues.
- Mild skin congestion in those already prone to clogged pores when used in heavy, waxy formulas
- Rare contact irritation such as slight redness or itching in highly sensitive skin
- Allergic reaction in the form of rash or swelling for individuals specifically allergic to castor oil derivatives
If you experience any discomfort or signs of an adverse reaction discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2 out of 5. Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Polyricinoleate is a large, branched ester molecule that tends to sit on the skin surface rather than seeping into pores. Its plant oil heritage and cushy texture mean it can feel rich, so very oily or congestion-prone skin might notice build-up when the ingredient is used at high levels in thick waxy products. For most people it is low to moderate on the clogging scale and therefore generally acceptable for acne-prone users, though lighter formulas are the safer choice.
The ingredient is most likely to cause bumps when combined with heavy waxes or multiple rich oils in the same formula. Water-based or lightweight cream products that use it only as a binder seldom create problems.
Summary
Dimer Dilinoleyl Bis-Polyricinoleate works mainly as a binder that locks pigments and powders in place and as a plasticiser that softens wax structures for smoother glide and flexible wear. Its long, branched backbone hugs particles so colors stay even and vivid while its castor-derived end groups add slip and shine.
It is still a niche ingredient yet its ability to replace petrolatum and improve long-wear payoff has made it popular in clean beauty lipsticks, glosses, mascaras and balmy skin treats.
Safety data show it stays on the surface, has very low irritation risk and carries no known hormone or photo issues. Most users can enjoy it with confidence, though it is always smart to patch test any new product to spot personal sensitivities early.