What Is Dimethicone/Ppg-20 Crosspolymer?
Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer is a lab-made silicone material created by linking hydrogen dimethicone with a small chain compound called bis-allyl PPG-20. The crosslinking turns the fluid silicone into a soft powdery network that feels velvety on skin. Since the early 2000s cosmetic chemists have leaned on this technology to upgrade the skin feel of lotions and makeup without heavy oils or waxes.
Manufacturing starts with medical-grade dimethicone. The chemist adds the PPG-20 building blocks then applies heat and a gentle catalyst so the molecules join into a three-dimensional lattice. After filtering and drying the result is a fine, lightweight powder that disperses easily in both water-based and oil-based formulas.
You will spot Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer in silky face primers, long-wear foundations, tinted moisturizers, sunscreens, anti-aging serums, sheet masks and certain eye creams. It also shows up in mattifying lotions for oily skin because it softens without leaving shine.
Dimethicone/Ppg-20 Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient pulls double duty in a formula offering texture and skin feel advantages.
- Emollient – Forms a light breathable layer that smooths rough patches so skin feels soft and supple. It glides over fine lines filling tiny gaps which helps makeup sit more evenly and look fresh longer
- Viscosity controlling – Acts as a thickener that stabilizes creams gels and sprays. It gives products a plush cushiony texture that spreads easily yet stays put where applied, reducing drips and improving overall user experience
Who Can Use Dimethicone/Ppg-20 Crosspolymer
This silicone powder suits almost every skin type. Dry and mature complexions will appreciate the softening emollient feel while the ingredient’s light breathable film makes it friendly for combination and oily skin that dislikes heavy creams. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because it is inert and non reactive. Extremely acne-prone users who avoid all silicones may choose to limit exposure though the crosspolymer itself has a very low likelihood of clogging pores.
Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer is made from synthetic building blocks so it contains no animal derived material which makes it acceptable for vegans and vegetarians.
The molecule does not penetrate deeply and has no known hormonal activity. Current safety reviews list it as safe for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should take the ingredient list to a qualified healthcare provider before adding new products just to be safe.
It does not increase photosensitivity so there is no special need for extra sun precautions beyond regular daily sunscreen use.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer are uncommon and depend on individual skin chemistry. The points below outline potential issues though most people will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching in highly sensitive individuals
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as a rash or hives
- Transient eye stinging or watering if the powder migrates into the eye area before it is fully bound in a formula
- Occlusive buildup that could contribute to millia or small breakouts in skin already prone to congestion
If you notice any of the above effects discontinue use and consult a dermatologist or healthcare professional for guidance
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5 (very low)
Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer sits on top of the skin as a breathable lattice rather than sinking into pores. The large crosslinked particles create a flexible film that lets water vapor pass while keeping surface friction low, which limits the chance of pore blockage. It lacks fatty acids or waxy residues that tend to feed acne bacteria, so its clogging potential is minimal. People who break out easily can generally use products containing this silicone, though exceptionally congestion-prone users who react to any occlusive layer might still prefer to avoid it.
Because the ingredient is usually incorporated at modest levels and often paired with oil-absorbing powders, its overall impact on comedogenicity in a finished formula is considered negligible.
Summary
Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer acts as a dual-purpose silicone powder that softens skin and perfects product texture. As an emollient it forms a silky cushion that fills micro-lines so makeup glides on smoothly. As a viscosity controller it thickens emulsions and gels giving them a plush, non-greasy feel that stays put.
Its pleasant slip and light after-feel have made it a staple in primers, long-wear foundations, sunscreens and modern skincare although it does not enjoy the same household recognition as classic dimethicone.
Safety reviews rate it as low risk for irritation, sensitization or hormonal activity. Most skin types tolerate it well yet everyone’s skin is unique so do a quick patch test when trying a new product that lists Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer near the top of the ingredient list.