What Is Dimethyl Adipate?
Dimethyl adipate is an ester created from adipic acid and methanol. It appears as a clear, lightweight liquid with a faint, sweet scent. Because it is an ester, it has a slippery feel that makes it useful whenever a soft glide is needed in a formula.
The compound was first produced on an industrial scale in the early 20th century for use in plastics and coatings. Formulators soon noticed its smooth texture and low odor made it ideal for skin care, so it moved into the cosmetic world during the 1970s when brands sought alternatives to heavy mineral oils.
Commercially, dimethyl adipate is made by reacting adipic acid with excess methanol under heat in the presence of an acid catalyst. The resulting mixture is distilled to remove impurities, leaving a high-purity liquid fit for cosmetic use.
Today you will most often see dimethyl adipate in lightweight facial and body moisturizers, sunscreens, makeup primers, gel masks, hair conditioners and anti-aging serums where a silky finish is prized.
Dimethyl Adipate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In beauty products dimethyl adipate serves several practical roles that improve texture, stability and application.
- Plasticiser – softens film-forming ingredients so dried masks, foundations and sunscreens stay flexible instead of cracking on the skin
- Emollient – provides a smooth, cushiony feel that helps reduce roughness and leaves skin feeling soft without a greasy residue
- Solvent – dissolves other oily or waxy ingredients, helping to create clear, uniform formulas and boosting the spreadability of active compounds
Who Can Use Dimethyl Adipate
Dimethyl adipate’s light, non greasy texture makes it suitable for most skin types, including oily, combination, normal and even sensitive skin because it does not leave a heavy film or clog pores. Extremely dry skin may find it too lightweight to provide long lasting comfort on its own, though it can still be layered under richer creams.
The ingredient is synthetically produced from adipic acid and methanol, both derived from petrochemical or plant based sources rather than animals, so it is considered appropriate for vegans and vegetarians.
No evidence suggests that topical dimethyl adipate poses a specific risk to pregnant or breastfeeding women. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should consult a healthcare professional before introducing new skincare products just to be safe.
Dimethyl adipate is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it does not make skin more vulnerable to sunburn. It is also fragrance free and does not contain common allergens, which further broadens its compatibility with most users.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical dimethyl adipate differ from person to person. The points below list potential but uncommon side effects observed when the ingredient is applied to the skin in cosmetic products. When used correctly by reputable brands most users will experience none of these issues.
- Mild redness or irritation in very sensitive individuals
- Transient stinging if applied to broken or compromised skin
- Contact dermatitis in the rare case of an individual allergy
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
If you notice any of these effects discontinue use and seek medical advice if symptoms persist or worsen.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5
Dimethyl adipate has a small molecular size and a lightweight, fast spreading texture that does not form an occlusive film, which keeps it from trapping dead skin cells and oil inside pores. It is therefore considered very low on the comedogenic scale.
Because of this low score the ingredient is generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
Keep in mind that overall formulation matters. If dimethyl adipate is blended with heavier oils or waxes the finished product could end up more pore clogging than the ingredient on its own.
Summary
Dimethyl adipate acts as a plasticiser, emollient and solvent. It softens film formers so products flex with facial movement, provides a silky glide that leaves skin feeling smooth without grease and dissolves oil soluble ingredients so formulas stay clear and uniform.
Although not a headline grabbing ingredient it is quietly popular among formulators who want a weightless, odorless glide in sunscreens, primers and light lotions.
Safety data show a very low risk of irritation or sensitisation and no links to toxicity, so most people can use it with confidence. As with any new skincare product it is wise to try a small test area first to ensure your skin agrees with the complete formula.