What Is Dioctyldodecyl Stearoyl Dimer Dilinoleate?
Dioctyldodecyl Stearoyl Dimer Dilinoleate is an oil-like ingredient created from a blend of fatty alcohols and fatty acids. Chemically, it is a copolymer made when 2-octyldodecanol (a branched fatty alcohol) reacts with 12-hydroxy stearic acid and a dimer form of linoleic acid. The result is a large, stable molecule that feels silky and spreadable on skin.
Interest in this material grew in the 1990s when formulators looked for plant-derived alternatives to mineral oil and silicones that could still deliver a rich sensory feel. Because all three starting materials can be sourced from vegetable oils such as sunflower or castor, the ingredient fits the move toward naturally inspired formulas.
Manufacturing involves esterification, where the fatty alcohol and acids are heated together with a catalyst to form new ester bonds. The dimerized linoleic acid adds bulk and flexibility to the final polymer, giving it a cushiony texture. After purification, the clear, almost odorless liquid is ready for use in cosmetics.
You will most often see Dioctyldodecyl Stearoyl Dimer Dilinoleate in moisturizers, lip balms, creamy foundations, masks, anti-aging serums and sunscreens. It helps these products glide on smoothly while leaving a soft, conditioning finish.
Dioctyldodecyl Stearoyl Dimer Dilinoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient serves one main purpose in skincare and makeup products.
As a skin-conditioning agent it forms a light, breathable film that locks in moisture, smooths rough patches and imparts a soft velvety feel. Because the molecule is large it stays near the surface, giving instant comfort without feeling greasy, which makes formulas more pleasant to use and can enhance the appearance of healthy, supple skin.
Who Can Use Dioctyldodecyl Stearoyl Dimer Dilinoleate
This silky emollient suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination and even sensitive skin thanks to its gentle, non-irritating nature. Oily or acne-prone individuals usually tolerate it well because its large molecule sits on the surface rather than sinking into pores, though extremely acne-prone users may prefer lighter textures.
The ingredient is derived from fatty alcohols and fatty acids that can be sourced from vegetable oils, so it is typically suitable for vegans and vegetarians. If animal origin is a concern check the brand’s sourcing statement to confirm plant-based supply.
No data suggest that Dioctyldodecyl Stearoyl Dimer Dilinoleate poses a risk to pregnant or breastfeeding women when used in cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review their skincare routine with a healthcare professional just to be safe.
The ingredient is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more reactive to sunlight. It is odorless, has no fragrance allergens and is free of common irritants, making it a flexible option for a wide range of users.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to topical ingredients vary. The effects listed below are possible but uncommon when products are formulated and used correctly.
- Mild skin irritation: A small percentage of users may notice redness or itching, usually due to an overall formula issue rather than the ingredient itself
- Contact dermatitis: Very rare allergic reactions can occur in highly sensitive individuals
- Breakouts: Those with exceptionally clog-prone skin might experience blemishes if the full product is too heavy for them
If any persistent irritation or breakout develops discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Dioctyldodecyl Stearoyl Dimer Dilinoleate is a bulky ester that mostly stays on the skin’s surface rather than sinking into pores and it has a light non-occlusive finish compared with heavier waxes or butters. Real-world reports and supplier data show a very low tendency to clog pores which is why it earns the near-non-comedogenic score of 1.
Because of this low rating the ingredient is generally considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin types.
Keep in mind that overall formula design matters; if the product also contains richer oils or waxes the final comedogenic potential can be higher even though this single component is low risk.
Summary
Dioctyldodecyl Stearoyl Dimer Dilinoleate is used to condition skin give slip and create a soft velvety finish. Its large ester structure forms a light breathable film that traps moisture smooths rough patches and improves product spreadability without feeling greasy. These qualities make it popular in lip balms creamy foundations and moisturizers although it is a specialty ingredient rather than a household name so you will see it more in mid to high-end formulas and natural inspired lines than in mass-market basics.
Current safety data and long history of cosmetic use show a very low risk of irritation allergy or pore clogging for most people. As with any new skincare ingredient it is smart to patch test a new product first to confirm personal compatibility.