What Is Dipeptide-23?
Dipeptide-23 is a lab made peptide composed of two amino acids, proline and serine. Because both amino acids already exist naturally in skin, the duo was chosen to mimic elements the body recognizes and can easily work with. Peptides caught the eye of cosmetic chemists in the early 2000s when they began searching for gentler ways to refresh the look of aging skin. Dipeptide-23 emerged from this wave of research as a compact, stable option that focuses on keeping skin feeling smooth and supple.
Manufacturing starts with solid phase peptide synthesis, a step by step process that links proline to serine on a resin support. After the chain is built it is cleaved, purified and dried into a fine cosmetic-grade powder. The finished ingredient dissolves well in water based formulas which helps chemists add it to products without heavy solvents.
You will most often spot Dipeptide-23 in lightweight serums, eye creams, anti-aging moisturizers, sheet masks and leave-on gels. In these formats it has time to sit on the skin so its conditioning effect can shine.
Dipeptide-23’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Dipeptide-23 is valued for one key role in skin care formulations.
Skin conditioning: By sitting on the surface and interacting with the upper layers of skin, Dipeptide-23 helps improve softness, supports a smoother texture and enhances the overall feel of a product. This can translate to skin that looks more refreshed and well cared for after regular use.
Who Can Use Dipeptide-23
Dipeptide-23 suits most skin types including normal, dry, oily and combination because it is lightweight and non-occlusive. People with sensitive skin usually tolerate it well, though anyone with a known peptide allergy should proceed carefully.
The ingredient is made entirely in the lab without animal by-products so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
No data suggests Dipeptide-23 poses unique risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, yet peer-reviewed studies on this group are limited. This information is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should check with a doctor before adding new skincare products.
Dipeptide-23 does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daytime sun protection is still recommended.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Dipeptide-23 differ from person to person. The points below list potential side effects, though they are uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild redness or irritation – usually short lived and more likely if skin is already compromised
- Temporary stinging around the eye area – can occur if a product is applied too close to the lash line
- Allergic contact dermatitis – rare but possible in individuals sensitive to peptides or other formula components
- Breakouts triggered by a contaminated or overly rich base – tied to the overall product, not the peptide itself
- Reduced efficacy when layered with very acidic products – low pH can destabilize peptides and may also cause irritation
If any discomfort, rash or swelling appears, stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0/5
Dipeptide-23 is a small water-soluble molecule that does not form an occlusive film or trap oil in pores, so it earns the lowest possible comedogenic score. It is therefore generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
Keep in mind that the overall formula matters. A serum packed with lightweight humectants will remain breakout friendly, while a heavy cream loaded with rich butters could still clog pores regardless of Dipeptide-23’s clean profile.
Summary
Dipeptide-23 is a lab made pairing of proline and serine used to condition skin by boosting surface softness and supporting a smoother feel. It works by settling in the upper layers and enhancing the skin’s natural hydration balance without adding weight.
Although peptides as a category have been buzzworthy for years, Dipeptide-23 itself sits in the quietly reliable camp rather than the viral spotlight. You will mostly find it in niche anti-aging serums and eye creams that focus on gentle skin renewal.
Safety data shows a low risk of irritation or pore clogging, making Dipeptide-23 a well tolerated addition to most routines. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to patch test a product first to confirm personal compatibility.