What Is Disodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate?
Disodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate is a mild, plant-derived surfactant made by joining glutamic acid, an amino acid often sourced from sugar beet or corn, with undecylenic acid, a fatty acid that starts out in castor oil. Through a process called acylation, manufacturers link the two building blocks then neutralize the result with sodium to form a water-soluble salt. The ingredient gained popularity in the 1990s when formulators began searching for gentler alternatives to traditional sulfates. Today it appears in creamy facial cleansers, low-foam shampoos, micellar waters, baby washes, shower gels, makeup-removing oils, enzyme masks and even some leave-on moisturizers where a touch of cleansing action is helpful for feel and spreadability.
Disodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient pulls double duty in many formulas thanks to the way its amino acid and fatty acid halves work together.
- Cleansing: The molecule lowers the surface tension of water so oil, dirt and makeup lift away easily without stripping natural moisture, making it ideal for sensitive-skin products
- Hair conditioning: Its fatty acid tail deposits a light film on each strand that smooths the cuticle, reduces static and leaves hair softer and easier to detangle
- Skin conditioning: The glutamic acid portion attracts and holds water on the skin’s surface, giving a hydrated feel and helping other humectants perform better
Who Can Use Disodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate
This gentle surfactant suits nearly every skin type including dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin because it cleans without harshly stripping the barrier. Even reactive or eczema-prone complexions tend to tolerate it well thanks to its low irritation profile. There are no known reasons for acne-prone users to avoid it, though very oily skins may prefer it in rinse-off formulas rather than rich leave-on creams to prevent any feeling of residue.
The ingredient is typically sourced from plants such as sugar beet, corn and castor oil, with no animal-derived components, so it is considered appropriate for both vegans and vegetarians. Always check the overall product label to confirm that the final formula aligns with individual lifestyle choices.
Current research shows no specific risks for those who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is applied topically in cosmetics. That said, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review all skincare products with a qualified healthcare professional.
Disodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate does not increase photosensitivity, so it does not make skin more prone to sunburn. Sunscreen is still important for daily protection but no extra precautions are required solely because of this ingredient.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Disodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects, though they are uncommon when the ingredient is correctly formulated and most users experience none of them.
- Mild stinging or redness: May occur on highly compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
- Dryness or tightness: Possible if used in very high concentrations or paired with other strong surfactants
- Allergic contact dermatitis: Rare sensitization that presents as itching, rash or swelling
- Eye irritation: Can happen if cleanser runs into the eyes during rinsing
If any of these effects appear discontinue use and seek guidance from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0–1 (very low)
Disodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate is highly water-soluble and designed to rinse clean, so it leaves little to no residue that could clog pores. Its fatty acid portion is short-chained and quickly removed during cleansing, further reducing any chance of build-up. Formulas usually include the ingredient at low levels, often alongside other mild surfactants that help it wash away completely. For these reasons it earns a 0–1 on the comedogenic scale.
Suitable for acne-prone and breakout-prone skin in both rinse-off and most leave-on products.
Rare cases of pore clogging would more likely stem from the overall formula, not this single surfactant. Always consider the full ingredient list when evaluating a product’s acne safety.
Summary
Disodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate cleanses, conditions hair and conditions skin by combining an amino acid head that attracts water with a fatty tail that lifts away oil, allowing it to remove dirt while depositing a light moisturizing film. Its balanced structure makes it gentle yet effective, so it appears in facial cleansers, shampoos, micellar waters, baby washes and the occasional leave-on cream.
The ingredient enjoys steady popularity among formulators who want a sulfate-free, vegan and biodegradable surfactant, though it is still less common than classics like coco-glucoside or sodium cocoyl isethionate.
Safety data show very low irritation and virtually no comedogenic potential, making it appropriate for most skin types including sensitive and acne-prone. As with any new cosmetic, perform a small patch test when first trying a product containing Disodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate to ensure personal compatibility.