Dmpa/Ppg-36/Smdi Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Dmpa/Ppg-36/Smdi Copolymer?

Dmpa/Ppg-36/Smdi Copolymer is a synthetic ingredient created by linking dimethylolpropionic acid (a small organic acid), PPG-36 (a mid-sized polypropylene glycol), and saturated methylene diphenyldiisocyanate, forming a stable network that behaves a bit like a flexible plastic once it dries on the skin or hair. The material was developed in the late 1990s during the search for water-resistant yet breathable coatings for cosmetics. By adjusting the ratio of its three building blocks scientists found they could give finished formulas a smooth feel without using heavy waxes.

Production starts with PPG-36, which is reacted with dimethylolpropionic acid to create a pre-polymer rich in hydroxyl groups. Saturated methylene diphenyldiisocyanate is then added, linking these chains together into a larger molecule. The process happens in a closed reactor under carefully controlled temperature to keep the polymer uniform. After neutralization and filtering, the copolymer is dispersed in water or solvent to form a fluid that manufacturers can easily blend into creams, gels, sprays, or mousses.

You will most often see Dmpa/Ppg-36/Smdi Copolymer in hair sprays, styling gels, curl-defining creams, long-wear makeup foundations, waterproof mascaras, tinted moisturizers, and transfer-resistant sunscreens. Its popularity has grown as brands aim for lightweight products that still stay put through humidity, sweat, or an active day.

Dmpa/Ppg-36/Smdi Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multifunctional polymer supports both skin and hair formulas in several practical ways

  • Film forming: Once the product is applied and the water or solvent evaporates the copolymer sets into a thin flexible film. This film helps makeup resist smudging, makes sunscreens more water-resistant, and keeps skincare actives in place so they can work longer
  • Hair fixing: In styling products the ingredient forms a lightweight coating around each strand, providing hold, shape memory, and frizz control without the stiff crunch often linked to older hairspray resins

Who Can Use Dmpa/Ppg-36/Smdi Copolymer

This ingredient is considered friendly for all skin and hair types because it sits on the surface rather than soaking in. Dry skin benefits from the light film that slows water loss while oily and acne-prone skin appreciate its non-greasy feel. Sensitive complexions generally tolerate it well since the polymer is inert and fragrance free. Anyone with a known sensitivity to polyurethane resins or isocyanates should avoid it because the residual trace monomers could trigger irritation.

Dmpa/Ppg-36/Smdi Copolymer is totally synthetic and contains no animal by-products so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. It is also free of common animal-derived processing aids such as casein or beeswax.

Current safety data show no specific concerns for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is applied topically in finished cosmetics. Still this is not medical advice and pregnant or nursing users should review any product containing the polymer with their doctor for personal assurance.

The copolymer does not increase photosensitivity and has no known interactions with UV exposure. It is compatible with most active ingredients and styling aids although very strong solvents can soften the film and reduce performance.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical use of Dmpa/Ppg-36/Smdi Copolymer vary by individual. The issues listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is properly formulated.

  • Mild skin irritation or redness in people sensitive to polyurethane-type resins
  • Eye stinging or watering if aerosol sprays are used too close to the face
  • Scalp buildup leading to dull hair when styling products containing high levels of the polymer are not washed out regularly
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases of preexisting isocyanate allergy

If any uncomfortable reaction develops stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or pharmacist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Dmpa/Ppg-36/Smdi Copolymer is a large water dispersible polymer that stays on the surface rather than seeping into pores. It is not oily or waxy and is usually used at low levels. These factors make it very unlikely to block follicles which is why it earns a low score of 1 instead of a perfect 0, leaving room for individual differences and formula variations.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases.

Formulas heavy in other occlusive ingredients may still feel pore-clogging even if this copolymer itself is not, so always consider the full ingredient list.

Summary

Dmpa/Ppg-36/Smdi Copolymer is mainly a film former and hair fixative. Once the product dries it creates a thin flexible coating that helps makeup resist smudging, keeps sunscreen in place through water and sweat, and gives hair styles lasting hold without crunch.

It is popular in long wear cosmetics, waterproof mascaras, and modern light hold styling sprays though it is not as widely talked about as big name silicones or acrylates.

Current research and industry reviews rate the polymer as low risk for irritation or pore clogging when used as directed. Even so skin is personal so patch test any new product that features it to be sure it plays nicely with your own complexion.

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