Empetrum Nigrum Leaf Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Empetrum Nigrum Leaf Extract?

Empetrum Nigrum Leaf Extract is a plant based ingredient made from the leaves of Empetrum nigrum, better known as black crowberry. The low growing shrub is common in the cool regions of Northern Europe, North America and parts of Asia, where its dark berries have long been eaten fresh or added to jams. Over time researchers found that the leaves are also rich in helpful compounds such as flavonoids, simple sugars and natural acids that offer protective effects for skin.

To create the extract, freshly collected or carefully dried leaves are cleaned, crushed and soaked in a mix of water and gentle food grade solvents. This process draws out the water soluble nutrients as well as oil friendly molecules. The resulting liquid is filtered, concentrated and then blended into a stable cosmetic grade solution ready for formulating.

Black crowberry leaf extract began turning up in skincare in the early 2000s when brands looked for Northern botanical ingredients packed with antioxidants. Today it is added to a range of products such as daily moisturizers, face masks, firming serums, soothing after sun gels and blemish control treatments, where it supports both freshness and skin comfort.

Empetrum Nigrum Leaf Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This botanical brings a pair of helpful actions to topical formulas

  • Antimicrobial – The extract helps keep unwanted surface germs in check which can reduce spoilage in the jar and support a clearer looking complexion when used in leave on products
  • Skin Conditioning – Its mix of plant sugars and antioxidants softens, smooths and hydrates the skin barrier giving it a healthier, more supple appearance

Who Can Use Empetrum Nigrum Leaf Extract

Black crowberry leaf extract is generally well tolerated by all major skin types, including dry, normal, combination and oily complexions. Its lightweight hydrating nature means it rarely feels heavy or greasy, making it a welcome option even for acne-prone or sensitive skin. At normal use levels there is no known reason it would be unsuitable for mature or reactive skin, as the extract is free of strong acids, fragrance allergens or pore-clogging oils.

The ingredient is plant derived and no animal by-products are involved in its harvesting or processing, so it fits comfortably into vegan and vegetarian routines.

Current data does not flag Empetrum Nigrum Leaf Extract as a concern for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said, this information is educational only and should not replace medical advice. Expectant or nursing mothers should have any skincare product reviewed by their healthcare provider to ensure personal safety.

The extract does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so routine daytime use does not require extra sun precautions beyond a standard broad-spectrum sunscreen.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Empetrum Nigrum Leaf Extract can differ from person to person. The issues listed below are potential outcomes and are considered uncommon when the ingredient is used at appropriate cosmetic levels.

  • Mild skin irritation such as tingling or discomfort shortly after application
  • Temporary redness or flushing, especially on very sensitive complexions
  • Localized dryness or tightness if paired with highly astringent actives
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitized to members of the heather family (Ericaceae)

If any of these symptoms occur discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional if the reaction persists or worsens.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5. Black crowberry leaf extract is primarily made up of water soluble antioxidants, sugars and mild organic acids rather than heavy oils or waxes, so it has virtually no tendency to block pores. This makes it suitable for people prone to acne or frequent breakouts. Because the extract is usually added at low concentrations and is often paired with light gel or lotion textures, it poses little risk of congestion even on oily skin. There are no known interactions with common acne treatments, though formulations that combine the extract with thick butters or comedogenic oils could alter the overall pore clogging potential of the finished product.

Summary

Empetrum Nigrum Leaf Extract delivers two key benefits in skincare: it helps curb surface bacteria through gentle antimicrobial activity and it conditions the skin with a mix of plant sugars and antioxidants that soften, hydrate and defend against daily stress. These actions stem from naturally occurring flavonoids, simple sugars and organic acids stored in the leaves of the black crowberry shrub.

While not as famous as aloe or green tea, the extract enjoys steady niche popularity in Nordic inspired formulas and in products looking to highlight clean botanical sourcing. Its use is expanding as consumers seek lightweight plant options that support both clarity and comfort.

Current research and cosmetic use levels point to a high margin of safety with very low irritation and no photosensitivity. As with any new skincare ingredient, it is wise to run a quick patch test when trying a product that contains Empetrum Nigrum Leaf Extract to ensure it agrees with your individual skin.

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