What Is Endomyces/Aesculus Turbinata Ferment Filtrate?
Endomyces/Aesculus Turbinata Ferment Filtrate is a skin care ingredient obtained when Aesculus turbinata seeds, better known as Japanese horse chestnut, are fermented with the friendly yeast Endomyces. During fermentation the yeast breaks down large plant molecules into smaller water-soluble compounds, creating a nutrient-rich liquid that is later filtered to remove any solid material. The resulting filtrate contains sugars, amino acids, antioxidants and small peptides that are easy for skin to absorb.
Fermented plant extracts became popular in Asian beauty circles in the early 2000s because the process can boost the potency and skin friendliness of botanical ingredients. Cosmetic chemists found that Aesculus turbinata, long used in folk beauty rituals for its soothing seed extract, delivered even better results after fermentation which led to its inclusion in modern formulas.
To make the filtrate, crushed horse chestnut seeds are mixed with water and inoculated with Endomyces yeast. The mixture is kept at a controlled temperature for several days, then pressed and filtered. The clarified liquid is preserved and added to products such as hydrating toners, leave-on masks, anti-aging serums and lightweight moisturizers where it serves as a skin conditioning agent.
Endomyces/Aesculus Turbinata Ferment Filtrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is prized for one main function in skin care:
As a skin conditioning agent it helps soften and smooth the surface of the skin, supports healthy moisture levels and can lend a refreshed look to dull or tired complexions. Its mix of natural humectants and antioxidants can also help reinforce the skin barrier which is why formulators like to include it in products aimed at boosting overall skin vitality.
Who Can Use Endomyces/Aesculus Turbinata Ferment Filtrate
This ferment filtrate is generally well tolerated by most skin types including normal, dry, combination and sensitive skin because the fermentation step reduces molecules that might otherwise trigger irritation. Very oily or severely acne prone skin can still use it but may prefer lighter formulas so the added hydration does not feel heavy.
The ingredient is derived from a plant source and fermented with yeast so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians as no animal material is involved in its production.
Current data shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the filtrate is used topically in cosmetic concentrations. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a doctor before adding new skincare products.
Endomyces/Aesculus Turbinata Ferment Filtrate does not increase photosensitivity so there is no special need for extra sun protection beyond your usual daytime SPF.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to any skincare ingredient can differ from one person to another. The issues listed below are merely potential side effects and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used at the levels typically found in cosmetics.
- Mild redness or warmth immediately after application in very reactive skin
- Temporary itching or tingling if used on broken or inflamed skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to horse chestnut derivatives or yeast proteins
- Rare swelling or hives in users with a known tree nut allergy who cross react to horse chestnut
If any of these reactions occur discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional for further guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0–1. Endomyces/Aesculus Turbinata Ferment Filtrate is a lightweight water-based ingredient with a low oil content, so it does not clog pores in the way heavier butters or fatty acids can. Its main components are small humectant molecules, amino acids and antioxidants, all of which sit lightly on skin and rinse away easily.
Because of this low likelihood of blocking pores, it is generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Only those who react to any horse chestnut derivative should be cautious.
No additional comedogenic concerns have been reported in the cosmetic literature to date.
Summary
Endomyces/Aesculus Turbinata Ferment Filtrate acts primarily as a skin conditioning agent, supplying moisture-binding sugars and peptides while delivering antioxidant support. Fermentation with Endomyces breaks large plant compounds into smaller ones that absorb quickly, helping skin feel softer, look brighter and maintain a stronger barrier.
While not as mainstream as ingredients like hyaluronic acid, this ferment has a steady following in Asian beauty and is slowly appearing in global hydrating toners, serums and masks where formulators want a gentle botanical boost without heaviness.
Current research and product usage show it to be safe for most skin types with few reported adverse effects, though anyone trying a new product should still patch test first to be on the safe side.