Equisetum Arvense/Galium Aparine/Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Equisetum Arvense/Galium Aparine/Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract?

Equisetum Arvense/Galium Aparine/Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract is a blended botanical extract made from the whole horsetail plant (Equisetum arvense) the cleavers plant (Galium aparine) and the fruit of the vanilla orchid (Vanilla planifolia). Horsetail is naturally rich in silica and flavonoids, cleavers offers coumarins and phenolic acids while vanilla contributes vanillin along with trace sugars and polyphenols. Together these plants supply a mix of minerals, antioxidants and soothing compounds that can help condition skin.

Horsetail and cleavers have long histories in folk skin tonics, and vanilla has been prized for its comforting scent since the 16th century. Modern formulators combined them to capture their complementary benefits in one multitasking extract. The plants are usually harvested, dried then steeped in a solvent such as water, glycerin or propylene glycol. After several hours of maceration the liquid is pressed and filtered to yield a stable, soluble extract ready for cosmetic use.

You will most often spot this ingredient in hydrating face masks, anti-aging serums, lightweight moisturizers, soothing after-sun gels, body lotions and scalp or hair treatments where a gentle plant-based conditioner is desired.

Equisetum Arvense/Galium Aparine/Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is classified as a skin conditioning agent, meaning it helps keep skin looking and feeling its best. In a formula it can supply trace minerals that support a healthy moisture barrier, mild astringent activity that leaves skin feeling smooth, antioxidant compounds that fend off everyday environmental stress and a subtle vanilla aroma that enhances sensory appeal.

Who Can Use Equisetum Arvense/Galium Aparine/Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

This botanical blend is gentle enough for most skin types, including normal, dry, combination and oily. Its light astringent quality can help refine the look of pores in oilier skin while the minerals and antioxidants support barrier comfort for drier complexions. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well, though anyone with a known allergy to horsetail, cleavers or vanilla should steer clear.

The extract is plant derived with no animal components or processing aids, so it suits both vegetarians and vegans.

There is no evidence that topical use poses a risk during pregnancy or breastfeeding, but this is not medical advice. Expectant or nursing parents should ask their healthcare provider before adding any new cosmetic product, just to be safe.

The ingredient is not known to cause photosensitivity and can be used in daytime formulas without special sun precautions. It is also compatible with most common actives such as niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and peptides.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Equisetum Arvense/Galium Aparine/Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract vary from person to person. The following are potential side effects that remain uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used properly

  • Allergic contact dermatitis
  • Mild stinging or redness in very sensitive skin
  • Rare cross reaction in individuals allergic to other members of the Equisetaceae or Rubiaceae plant families
  • Fragrance sensitivity triggered by the natural vanilla scent

If you develop irritation stop use immediately and seek medical advice if symptoms persist

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5. This blended extract is water soluble or glycerin based in most formulas, contains very little oil and has no heavy waxes that can clog pores. Its light astringent properties may even help keep pores feeling fresh rather than congested. Therefore it is generally suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts. If the extract is delivered in an oil rich base the overall product could still be pore clogging, so always consider the complete ingredient list.

Summary

Equisetum Arvense/Galium Aparine/Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract is used mainly to condition skin by supplying trace minerals, mild antioxidants and soothing plant compounds that support a comfortable moisture barrier and a smoother feel. Horsetail lends silica for resilience, cleavers offers gentle astringency with phenolics and vanilla contributes comforting aroma alongside polyphenols. Although not a headline ingredient like hyaluronic acid its multitasking nature keeps it popping up in hydrating serums, masks and lightweight lotions where formulators want an easy boost of botanical goodness.

Topical use is considered low risk with rare reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new skincare product perform a small patch test first to check personal tolerance.

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