Erucic Acid: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Erucic Acid?

Erucic acid is a long-chain monounsaturated fatty acid found naturally in the seeds of certain plants, most notably rapeseed, mustard, and broccoli seed. Chemically identified as 13-docosenoic acid, it features a 22-carbon backbone with one double bond, which gives it a lightweight silky feel when applied to skin. The cosmetic use of erucic acid traces back to the mid-20th century when vegetable oils rich in this fatty acid were refined for personal care products due to their smooth spreadability.

To create cosmetic-grade erucic acid, manufacturers press and filter the oil from plant seeds, then further purify it through distillation and crystallization to isolate the fatty acid. This yields a clear, odorless ingredient suitable for skin care formulations.

Because of its emollient nature, erucic acid appears in moisturizers, body lotions, nourishing face masks, hand creams, lip balms, and certain anti-aging serums where it helps deliver a soft finish and comfortable skin feel.

Erucic Acid’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skin care formulas erucic acid serves one main purpose that offers several practical perks for the user.

  • Skin conditioning: This fatty acid smooths and softens the skin surface, helping to reduce rough texture and boost overall suppleness. Its lightweight occlusive action supports the skin barrier by slowing water loss, which leads to longer-lasting hydration without a greasy residue.

Who Can Use Erucic Acid

Erucic acid suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination and mature skin thanks to its lightweight smoothing feel. Oily and acne-prone users generally tolerate it well, though those highly sensitive to any plant oils may prefer to introduce it slowly as richer textures can occasionally feel heavy on very oily skin.

Because it is sourced from plant seeds such as rapeseed and broccoli, erucic acid is naturally suitable for both vegans and vegetarians with no animal derivatives involved in its production.

Current research shows no known risks linked specifically to topical erucic acid use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. That said, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should first check with a healthcare professional before adding new skincare products to their routine.

The ingredient is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more vulnerable to sunburn. Standard daytime sun protection practices should still be followed whenever using any skincare regimen.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical erucic acid vary from person to person. The following points outline potential side effects that could occur in rare cases if the ingredient or finished product is not well tolerated. Most users will not experience these issues under normal cosmetic use.

  • Mild skin irritation or redness
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to mustard or rapeseed family plants
  • Temporary clogged pores or breakouts on very oily or congestion-prone skin

If any discomfort, persistent redness or other unwanted effect appears, stop using the product and consult a qualified healthcare provider or dermatologist for guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 out of 5

Erucic acid is a lightweight monounsaturated fatty acid that spreads thinly and does not solidify on skin so it has a very low tendency to block pores. Its long 22-carbon chain sits mostly on the surface and is less likely to trap dead cells or sebum that could trigger blemishes.

Most acne-prone users should find it acceptable in leave-on products though personal sensitivity always varies.

If erucic acid appears alongside rich waxes or heavy butters the overall formula may feel thicker and raise clogging potential so checking the complete ingredient list is a good idea for those who congest easily.

Summary

Erucic acid works as a skin-conditioning emollient that smooths texture supports the barrier and locks in moisture while leaving a silky non-greasy finish.

It is not as famous as hyaluronic acid or retinol yet it quietly boosts the feel of many moisturizers lotions masks and lip balms by improving glide and softness.

Topical safety is high with only occasional irritation or plant-oil allergy reported. Still performing a quick patch test before full use is a smart step whenever you try a new product containing this ingredient.

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