What Is Ethylenediamine/Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 Alkyl Amide?
Ethylenediamine/Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 Alkyl Amide is a long name for a modern, plant-based polymer. It starts with ethylenediamine, a small molecule that links up with fatty acids obtained from vegetable oils rich in linoleic acid. These fatty acids are first “dimerized,” meaning two of them are joined together, then hydrogenated to make them stable. The resulting dimer dilinoleic acid is reacted with ethylenediamine to create a flexible, film-forming backbone. Finally, the chain ends are capped with C14-C18 fatty acid amides to improve feel on the skin and boost compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients.
The process happens in three main steps: polymerization of the hydrogenated dimer dilinoleic acid with ethylenediamine, amidation with mid-length fatty acids, then purification to remove unreacted materials. The finished copolymer is a soft, waxy solid that disperses easily in oils and many water-based formulas.
Although the chemistry sounds new, the idea of using oil-derived polymers in beauty dates back to the late 1990s when brands looked for greener options to replace petroleum-based thickeners. Since then it has become a go-to ingredient in a range of products. You will most often see it in toothpastes, mouthwashes, facial creams, body lotions, anti-aging serums, sheet masks, makeup primers, sunscreens, hair styling balms and other leave-on treatments where a smooth feel and gentle conditioning are desired.
Ethylenediamine/Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 Alkyl Amide’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking polymer adds several useful qualities to personal care formulas:
- Oral Care – In toothpaste and mouthwash it helps bind flavor oils, keeps the paste from separating and leaves a thin film that supports a clean mouthfeel
- Skin Conditioning – On skin it forms a soft, breathable layer that locks in moisture and leaves the surface feeling silky not greasy
- Viscosity Controlling – It thickens both water and oil phases so creams, gels and serums stay stable and spread evenly without dripping
Who Can Use Ethylenediamine/Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 Alkyl Amide
This polymer is generally considered suitable for all skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily. Its light film helps hold moisture without trapping excessive oil so even acne-prone skin usually tolerates it well. Those with very sensitive or compromised skin should still watch for any personal intolerance since it is an amide-containing material, but overall it is regarded as low risk.
The ingredient is synthesized from plant-derived fatty acids and contains no animal parts or by-products, making it appropriate for vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety data show no reproductive or developmental concerns at the low topical doses used in cosmetics. Pregnant or breastfeeding users can generally use products containing this polymer, although this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review any new skincare product with a qualified health professional before adding it to a routine.
The copolymer is not known to increase photosensitivity and does not react with sunlight. Usual daytime sun protection practices are still recommended when using leave-on products, but no extra precautions are required because of this ingredient.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Ethylenediamine/Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 Alkyl Amide vary from person to person. The points below list potential effects that could occur even though most users will not experience any of them, provided the product has been formulated and stored correctly.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness stinging or itching, usually temporary
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to amide or ethylenediamine derivatives
- Eye irritation if the raw ingredient or a concentrated formula accidentally enters the eyes
- Follicular congestion in very oily skin when used in heavy formulations, which could contribute to breakouts
If any unexpected reaction occurs stop using the product immediately and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5
This polymer has a very low tendency to clog pores because its large molecular size sits on the surface and does not easily penetrate into follicles. It creates a lightweight breathable film rather than an occlusive waxy layer, which limits its ability to trap sebum and debris. Most finished formulas use it at modest concentrations that further reduce any pore-blocking risk.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in the majority of cases.
Formulations that pair it with heavy butters or high percentages of rich oils could raise the overall comedogenic profile, so the full ingredient list matters.
Summary
Ethylenediamine/Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 Alkyl Amide acts as a skin conditioner, viscosity controller and oral care film former. Its long oil-derived backbone and amide end groups let it thicken both water and oil phases while laying down a flexible moisturizing film that feels silky not greasy. In oral care it binds flavors and stabilizes pastes so they stay smooth from shelf to sink.
While not a household name it has carved out a niche in modern green-leaning formulas thanks to its plant origin and multifunctional performance. You will find it more often in mid to premium products that aim for a refined skin feel without relying on petroleum-based polymers.
Current safety data show it is low risk for irritation or sensitization at the dilute levels used in cosmetics. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product containing this ingredient before full-face or wide-area use.