Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer?

Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer is a waxy polymer created by linking ethylenediamine with dimerized tall oil fatty acids, then capping the chain with stearyl alcohol. Tall oil is a plant-based by-product of the wood pulp industry, while stearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol often sourced from coconut or palm oil. The result is a large, skin-friendly molecule that acts much like a lightweight conditioner.

The ingredient first appeared in cosmetic labs when chemists looked for plant-derived alternatives to mineral and silicone conditioners. By combining tall oil chemistry with common fatty alcohols they produced a material that coats surfaces smoothly without feeling greasy, making it useful in both skin and oral care formulas.

Manufacturing starts with purifying tall oil then converting part of it into a dimer acid. This dimer acid is reacted with ethylenediamine in a controlled heating step that creates long polymer chains. Finally stearyl alcohol is added to “cap” the ends, giving the copolymer its soft, emollient character. After washing and drying, the finished material is milled into flakes or a pourable paste ready for blending into cosmetic bases.

You will most often see Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer in moisturizers, night creams, sheet masks, anti-aging serums, lip balms, toothpastes and mouthwashes. It may also appear in leave-on skin treatments where a light conditioning feel is desired.

Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient earns its spot in formulas for two key reasons

  • Oral care: Creates a smooth film that helps toothpaste spread evenly over teeth and gums, improving mouthfeel and reducing the risk of irritation. It can also help hold flavor oils in place so the fresh taste lasts longer
  • Skin conditioning: Softens and smooths the skin surface, cuts down on moisture loss and leaves a velvety finish without heaviness. Its film-forming action can also boost the stability of lotions and creams, keeping water and oil phases from separating

Who Can Use Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer

This light, film-forming polymer is generally friendly to all major skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin because it sits on the surface rather than soaking deep into pores. People prone to acne usually tolerate it well since the molecule is large and non-occlusive, so it is unlikely to trap oil or bacteria.

The raw materials are plant derived and no animal by-products are involved in production, making the ingredient acceptable for vegans and vegetarians.

Current safety data shows no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used in rinse-off or leave-on cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review all personal care products with a health professional before use.

Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it carries no special photosensitivity warning. It is also fragrance free and gluten free, which may be helpful for people avoiding those extras.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects but they are uncommon when the ingredient is properly formulated and most users experience none of them.

  • Mild skin redness or itching in very sensitive individuals
  • Transient stinging if applied to cracked or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis in people already allergic to ethylenediamine derivatives
  • Eye irritation if the raw ingredient contacts the eyes before dilution in a finished product

If any discomfort or irritation develops stop using the product and seek medical advice if symptoms persist or worsen.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer earns a 1 because its large, branched structure sits lightly on the surface and does not plug pores. The stearyl end groups give slip but the molecule does not create a heavy wax film that would trap oil. Real-world reports from formulators and users show very few breakout complaints.

Suitable for acne-prone or easily congested skin, though individual experiences can differ.

As with most conditioning polymers, a very thick or poorly balanced formula could still feel occlusive to some users. This would be due to the overall product base rather than the copolymer itself.

Summary

Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer is a plant-derived polymer that smooths skin, locks in moisture and improves the spread of pastes or creams. It forms a thin uniform film that keeps water from escaping and helps flavors or active ingredients stay in place.

It is not a headline star like hyaluronic acid yet it shows up quietly in moisturizers, toothpastes and leave-on treatments when formulators want a light, non-greasy conditioner that is vegan friendly.

Current data points to a strong safety record with very low irritation and allergy rates. Still, skin can be unpredictable so it is smart to patch test any new product that contains this or any other unfamiliar ingredient.

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