Evening Primrose Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Evening Primrose Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters?

Evening Primrose Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters is a plant-derived ingredient created by joining two well known botanical oils with a small amino alcohol called aminopropanediol. In a controlled process called transesterification, chemists blend evening primrose seed oil and sustainably sourced palm oil with aminopropanediol, swapping parts of their fatty acid chains to form new esters that are more stable and easier for skin to accept. The resulting material carries the nurturing lipid profile of both original oils, including linoleic and palmitic acids, while gaining a lighter feel and smoother finish.

Evening primrose has a long history in traditional skin care thanks to its soothing omega-6 fatty acids. Palm oil has been prized in many regions for its protective and emollient qualities. Combining these oils through modern green chemistry gave formulators a single multitasking ester that spreads well, resists oxidation and leaves less greasiness on the surface. Manufacturers typically add this ingredient to moisturizers, leave-on masks, lightweight lotions, anti-aging creams and specialty treatments aimed at reinforcing the skin barrier or boosting softness.

Evening Primrose Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is valued for one primary role in skin care formulations

As a skin conditioning agent it helps replenish lipids, smooth rough patches and improve overall skin feel. Its balanced fatty acid composition supports the natural moisture barrier, which can reduce dryness and leave skin feeling supple yet non-greasy.

Who Can Use Evening Primrose Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters

This ester suits most skin types. Dry and mature skin benefit from the replenishing lipids while normal and combination skin enjoy its lightweight feel. Oily or very acne-prone skin can also use it because the ingredient absorbs quickly and is not overly greasy, though individuals who know they clog easily may want to monitor how their skin responds.

The ingredient comes from plant oils and a small plant-derived amino alcohol so it is generally considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Responsible brands source certified sustainable palm oil to address environmental concerns tied to palm farming.

No studies show a risk when products containing this ester are used during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. Because bodies and pregnancies differ, this is not medical advice and pregnant or nursing users should show any new skincare product to their doctor for personal guidance.

The ester is not known to cause photosensitivity, meaning it does not make skin more likely to burn in the sun. Standard daytime sun protection is still important for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Evening Primrose Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters differ from person to person. The points below list potential side effects which remain unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is properly formulated in a product.

  • Mild redness or stinging on very sensitive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to evening primrose or palm derivatives
  • Temporary increase in breakouts for users who are highly prone to clogged pores
  • Rare rash or itching linked to fragrance or other additives in the finished product rather than the ester itself

If any unexpected reaction occurs, stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 / 5

This moderate–low score reflects the mixed fatty acid profile of the two parent oils. Evening primrose oil is naturally low in pore-clogging saturated fats while palm oil contains more of them. The transesterification step trims down some of the heavier fractions and gives the final ester a lighter texture that sinks in faster than raw palm oil. Most people will not see blocked pores from this level of comedogenicity.

Suitable for acne-prone and breakout-prone skin in most cases though very reactive skin should still keep an eye on how it behaves in a new formula.

Formulation also matters; if the finished product is rich in waxes or other heavy oils the overall pore-clogging risk may rise even if this ester by itself is only mildly comedogenic.

Summary

Evening Primrose Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters is used mainly as a skin-conditioning agent that tops up lost lipids, softens rough spots and supports the skin barrier without a greasy afterfeel. Chemists achieve this by linking the soothing omega-6 fats of evening primrose with the smoothing qualities of palm oil then attaching them to aminopropanediol for better spreadability and stability.

It remains a niche ingredient compared with classics like shea butter or jojoba oil but is gaining interest among formulators who want plant-based esters that feel light yet nourishing.

Overall safety is high with only rare reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new skincare ingredient it is smart to patch test a small area first to ensure your skin agrees with it.

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