What Is Glyceryl Di-Hydroxystearate?
Glyceryl Di-Hydroxystearate is a plant-derived diester created when two molecules of 12-hydroxystearic acid bind to glycerin. The fatty acid portion is usually sourced from renewable oils such as castor or soybean, giving the ingredient a largely vegetable origin that appeals to brands focused on sustainability.
The cosmetic world began turning to this material in the 1980s, when formulators looked for waxy agents that could soften skin without the heavy feel of mineral oil. Its ability to melt near skin temperature while leaving a light cushion soon made it popular in moisturizers and color cosmetics.
Production starts with hydrogenating and hydroxylating natural fatty acids to obtain 12-hydroxystearic acid. This acid is then carefully esterified with glycerin under controlled heat and vacuum, producing a wax-like substance that is purified, cooled and milled into fine flakes or pastilles ready for use.
You will most often spot Glyceryl Di-Hydroxystearate in creams, lotions and balms, where it boosts richness and glide. It also appears in face masks, anti-aging serums, lipsticks, foundations and hair conditioners, lending each product a smooth touch and helping stabilize textures.
Glyceryl Di-Hydroxystearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient earns its place on a label thanks to the following functions
- Skin conditioning: Forms a soft, breathable film that helps the surface retain moisture so skin feels supple and looks smoother
- Emollient: Fills in tiny gaps between flaky skin cells creating a silky finish improving spreadability and giving formulas a creamy, luxurious texture
This emollient suits most skin types including dry, normal and combination because it traps moisture without a greasy afterfeel. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it well since it is non reactive and free of common irritants. Very oily or acne-prone users can still use it but might prefer lighter formulas as the waxy texture could feel heavy if applied in thick layers.
The ingredient is typically sourced from castor or soybean oil so it is acceptable for vegans and vegetarians. Brands focused on plant-based formulations often highlight this origin on the label yet anyone strictly avoiding animal derivatives should check that no secondary animal-based processing aids were involved.
Current safety data show no issues for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the diester is used in normal cosmetic concentrations. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should review all skincare products with a qualified physician to be extra careful.
Glyceryl Di-Hydroxystearate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so there is no added risk of photosensitivity. It is also odorless and color stable which keeps it compatible with fragranced or tinted products without altering their performance.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to any cosmetic ingredient vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects yet most people will not experience them when the finished product has been properly formulated and preserved.
- Mild redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis due to individual intolerance
- Temporary congestion or surface breakouts if layered heavily on extremely oily skin
- Occasional eye irritation if applied too close to the lash line
If you notice any of these reactions stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2 out of 5
Glyceryl Di-Hydroxystearate is derived from fatty acids, so it has a mild tendency to sit on top of the skin, yet its ester structure keeps it lighter and less occlusive than straight plant oils or fatty alcohols. Tests and anecdotal reports place it in the low-to-middle range for clogging pores, similar to ingredients like glyceryl stearate.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin when used in well-balanced formulas, but those who know they react easily to waxy emollients might prefer a lighter option.
Keep in mind that the finished product’s full recipe, how often it is applied and how thoroughly it is washed off all play a bigger role in pore clogging than this single ingredient alone.
Summary
Glyceryl Di-Hydroxystearate acts mainly as an emollient and skin conditioner, melting at skin temperature to slip into tiny surface gaps and lock in water so skin feels smooth, soft and comfortable. Its wax-like texture also thickens creams, stabilises emulsions and boosts spreadability, giving products a richer yet non-greasy feel.
While it is not as famous as hyaluronic acid or shea butter, this plant-sourced ester shows up in plenty of moisturisers, lip balms and colour cosmetics because formulators value its silky glide and renewable origin.
Safety data and decades of use point to a very low risk of irritation or sensitisation for the average user. Still, everyone’s skin is different so it is wise to patch test any new product that features Glyceryl Di-Hydroxystearate before making it part of a daily routine.