Glyceryl Sesquioleate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Glyceryl Sesquioleate?

Glyceryl Sesquioleate is an ester made by combining glycerin, a natural humectant derived from plant oils, with oleic acid, the main fatty acid found in olive oil and other seed oils. Chemically it is classified as 9-octadecenoic acid (Z)-, ester with 1,2,3-propanetriol (3:2). First introduced in personal care during the mid-20th century, it quickly gained popularity as brands looked for gentle, plant-based alternatives to mineral oils. The ingredient is produced through an esterification process where purified glycerin reacts with oleic acid under controlled heat and vacuum, resulting in a smooth, pale liquid that blends easily with both water-based and oil-based ingredients.

Because of its silky feel and ability to help water and oil play nicely together, Glyceryl Sesquioleate shows up in many product types including facial moisturizers, body lotions, cleansing balms, nourishing masks, sunscreens, baby care items and makeup like creamy foundations and lipsticks.

Glyceryl Sesquioleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient brings two key benefits to a formula

  • Emollient: forms a lightweight, breathable layer on the skin that softens rough patches and gives products a smooth glide, improving spreadability and overall sensory feel
  • Emulsifying: acts as a bridge between oil and water so creams stay stable and don’t split, allowing formulators to pack both oil-soluble and water-soluble actives into one uniform product

Who Can Use Glyceryl Sesquioleate

Most skin types tolerate Glyceryl Sesquioleate well. Its silky finish makes it a welcome addition to dry and normal skin routines, while combination skin usually finds it comfortable too. Very oily or easily congested skin might find the fatty nature of the molecule a bit too rich, which can translate to a heavier feel or the chance of clogged pores if the rest of the formula is already oil-dense.

The ingredient is typically sourced from plant oils, so products that are certified vegan or vegetarian friendly can include it without issue. If you follow a strict lifestyle check the brand’s sourcing statement, as some suppliers still use animal-derived fats.

Current data shows no special warnings for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run any skincare product past a qualified health professional just to be on the safe side.

Glyceryl Sesquioleate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and can be used day or night. It is also considered gentle enough for baby care formulas, which hints at its overall mild profile.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects of Glyceryl Sesquioleate, yet most users will not experience them as long as the product is well formulated and used as directed.

  • Redness or itching in sensitive individuals
  • Contact dermatitis in rare cases of true allergy
  • Breakouts or clogged pores on very oily or acne-prone skin
  • Mild eye irritation if the product migrates into the eye area

If any of the above reactions occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 out of 5

Glyceryl Sesquioleate is a fatty ester, so it has a mild tendency to sit on the skin and could trap debris if the rest of the formula is already heavy with oils or waxes. That said its molecular structure is bulkier than straight oils like coconut oil, making it less likely to wedge into pores. Most people will not notice clogged pores unless they already struggle with very oily or easily congested skin.

Suitable for acne-prone users in light or well-balanced formulas, but it may be best to avoid if you know your skin reacts to richer textures.

Keep in mind the finished product, not just the single ingredient, decides the real-world pore-clogging potential.

Summary

Glyceryl Sesquioleate softens skin as an emollient and keeps water and oil blended as an emulsifier. It does this by forming a silky film on the surface while its dual-loving structure grabs both oil and water, giving creams and lotions a smooth and stable feel.

The ingredient is fairly common in moisturizers, sunscreens and makeup but it is not a headline-grabbing star. Brands like it because it is gentle, plant-derived and easy to work with.

Safety data shows a low risk of irritation or allergy for most users. As with any new product do a quick patch test first so you can spot any personal sensitivities before applying it all over.

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