What Is Hdi/Di-C12-14 Alkyl Tartrate/Hydrogenated Dilinoleyl Alcohol Copolymer?
Hdi/Di-C12-14 Alkyl Tartrate/Hydrogenated Dilinoleyl Alcohol Copolymer is a man-made ingredient created from plant-derived fatty acids that have been dimerized, hydrogenated then linked with small amounts of tartaric acid esters and a bridging agent called hexamethylene diisocyanate. Most of the fatty acids come from common vegetable oils such as soybean or sunflower, which are first converted into larger “dimer” molecules to give the final material extra flexibility and strength. Cosmetic chemists began exploring these long, branched polymers in the early 2000s as a lightweight substitute for heavy waxes and silicones, especially in long-wear makeup. Today the copolymer is produced in closed reactors where the fatty acid dimers are hydrogenated for stability, reacted with C12-14 tartrate esters for softness then gently linked together by hexamethylene diisocyanate to form a stable, high-molecular-weight film former. Once purified and milled into a fine powder or viscous liquid it can be blended into a wide range of products. You will most often spot it in long-lasting foundations, transfer-resistant lipsticks, waterproof mascaras, setting sprays, sunscreens, hair styling creams and skin care formulas that promise a smooth protective finish.
Hdi/Di-C12-14 Alkyl Tartrate/Hydrogenated Dilinoleyl Alcohol Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is valued mainly for one job: film forming. After application it dries down to create a thin flexible layer that helps hold pigments in place, improves water and sweat resistance, reduces smudging, seals in moisture and gives skin or hair a smoother feel. The result is makeup that lasts longer, sunscreens that stay put through a swim and creams that leave behind a soft protective veil without a sticky after-feel.
Who Can Use Hdi/Di-C12-14 Alkyl Tartrate/Hydrogenated Dilinoleyl Alcohol Copolymer
This film former works well for most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily because it sits on the surface rather than soaking deep into the skin. People with very acne-prone or congestion-prone skin may want to watch for clogged pores if the formula is heavy or layered with rich oils since the ingredient locks everything underneath a breathable yet continuous film. It is generally considered gentle enough for sensitive skin as it is non-fragrant and free of common allergens.
The raw materials are plant based or synthetic and no animal by-products are used in the manufacturing process, so the ingredient itself is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Cruelty status depends on the finished brand’s policies and local laws.
Because it is a large, non-penetrating polymer with no known hormonal activity, it is viewed as low risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women when used topically. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run all skincare products past a qualified health professional to be extra safe.
The copolymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known interactions with UV filters or self-tanners. It is odorless, colorless and inert so it rarely conflicts with actives or fragrances in the same formula.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical use of Hdi/Di-C12-14 Alkyl Tartrate/Hydrogenated Dilinoleyl Alcohol Copolymer differ from person to person. The points below outline potential reactions only and are not expected to occur for the majority of users when the ingredient is properly formulated.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching, usually from overuse or a poorly balanced formula
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to trace isocyanate residues
- Blocked pores or acne flare-ups in very oily or congestion-prone skin types when combined with heavy emollients
- Transient eye stinging or watering if the ingredient migrates from mascaras or eyeliners into the eyes
- Scalp or hair buildup causing a weighed-down feel when used in styling creams without regular cleansing
If any uncomfortable reaction occurs discontinue use and seek advice from a medical professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. The molecule is a very large hydrogenated polymer that tends to stay on top of the skin rather than seeping into pores, so it has a low inherent clogging potential. It can, however, form an occlusive film that traps heavier oils or butters underneath, which might aggravate congestion if the rest of the formula is rich. In lightweight or water-based products it is usually well tolerated. Overall it is considered suitable for most acne-prone users, provided the surrounding ingredients are not highly comedogenic.
An extra point to note: because the copolymer is insoluble in water, thorough cleansing is important to remove any residue and prevent buildup over time.
Summary
Hdi/Di-C12-14 Alkyl Tartrate/Hydrogenated Dilinoleyl Alcohol Copolymer is mainly a film former. After application it dries into a flexible, breathable layer that locks pigments in place, boosts water resistance and leaves skin or hair feeling smooth. Its high molecular weight and branched structure give it the grip and durability that long-wear makeup, waterproof sunscreens and styling products need, without the heavy feel of traditional waxes.
While not as famous as silicones or acrylates, it is gaining steady popularity with formulators who want vegan, plant-derived alternatives that still deliver strong performance. Because it remains on the surface and has no known hormonal or phototoxic effects, it is viewed as a low-risk ingredient for most users. As with any new cosmetic, patch testing a small area first is a smart move to rule out personal sensitivities.