Helichrysum Italicum Phytoplacenta Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
Share:
Inside this article:

We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Helichrysum Italicum Phytoplacenta Extract?

Helichrysum Italicum Phytoplacenta Extract comes from the yellow flowering plant Helichrysum italicum, sometimes called immortelle. In nature the plant survives in dry, rocky areas around the Mediterranean, which has given it a reputation for resilience. Scientists noticed that the cells found in the plant’s “phytoplacenta” region—the part that nourishes the developing seed—are packed with protective sugars, amino acids and antioxidants. These compounds help hold water, shield the plant from stress and keep its tissues supple.

The cosmetic world became interested in these cell contents in the early 2000s when brands were looking for plant-based options that could mimic the regenerating feel of animal placenta without the ethical concerns. To make the ingredient, laboratories harvest tiny amounts of young flower tissue, place the cells in a sterile culture and let them multiply in a nutrient solution. This controlled setting keeps out contaminants and preserves the active molecules. After several growth cycles the cell mass is filtered, then the water-based extract is concentrated, refined and tested for skin use.

Because of its ability to draw in moisture and leave skin feeling smooth, the extract shows up in hydrating masks, lightweight serums, anti-aging creams, after-sun gels and brightening spot treatments. Formulators like it because it is water soluble, has a mild scent and pairs well with both botanical and lab-made ingredients.

Helichrysum Italicum Phytoplacenta Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In a topical formula this plant extract serves two main purposes that translate into noticeable skin benefits:

  • Humectant: Acts like a moisture magnet by attracting water from the air and deeper skin layers to the surface. This extra hydration can make skin look plumper, reduce the appearance of fine lines and improve product spreadability.
  • Skin conditioning: Leaves a soft, smooth finish and helps reinforce the skin’s natural barrier so it feels comfortable rather than tight or stripped after cleansing.

Who Can Use Helichrysum Italicum Phytoplacenta Extract

This extract is gentle and water based, which makes it a good fit for nearly all skin types. Dry and mature skin often see the biggest boost thanks to its moisture-binding sugars, while oily and combination skin appreciate that it feels lightweight and non-greasy. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because it is free of essential-oil allergens, though anyone with a known ragweed or aster family allergy should take extra care.

Because the ingredient is harvested from plant cells and grown in sterile culture without animal derivatives, it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Its plant origin also means it aligns with many clean beauty preferences.

No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women, but clinical data during these life stages are limited. This information is not medical advice, so it is best for anyone who is expecting or nursing to review any new skincare product with a qualified healthcare provider before use.

Helichrysum Italicum Phytoplacenta Extract is not known to cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daily sunscreen habits are still recommended for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Helichrysum Italicum Phytoplacenta Extract can differ from person to person. The points below outline potential, yet uncommon, side effects assuming the ingredient has been properly formulated and preserved.

  • Mild redness or flushing
  • Transient stinging or burning on very sensitive skin
  • Itchiness or small rash due to individual plant allergies
  • Swelling if a true contact hypersensitivity develops

If you notice any of these effects, stop using the product and consult a dermatologist or healthcare professional for further guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0

Helichrysum Italicum Phytoplacenta Extract is water based and contains mainly small humectant molecules like sugars and amino acids rather than heavy oils or waxes that can block pores. Laboratory data and anecdotal feedback show no tendency to form comedones, which is why it receives a zero on the 0-5 scale.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

Keep in mind that the final product’s overall pore-clogging potential depends on the full formula and not on this single ingredient.

Summary

Helichrysum Italicum Phytoplacenta Extract acts as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent by pulling water into the upper layers of skin and leaving a smooth, comfortable feel. Its lightweight, water soluble profile makes it versatile in hydrating serums, creams and after-sun gels.

While not as famous as hyaluronic acid or glycerin, the extract is gaining quiet popularity among brands that focus on plant cell technology and vegan claims.

Current safety data show a low risk of irritation or allergy, and it is considered appropriate for most skin types when properly formulated. As with any new skincare ingredient, patch test first to make sure your skin agrees with it.

Was this article helpful?
More from Glooshi:
ADVERTISEMENT
Get all our top headlines in beauty.
Delivered right to your inbox each week. Zero spam, all goodness, opt-out at anytime.
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Get the latest beauty news, top product recommendations & brand-exclusive discount codes direct to your inbox.
Send good feedback:

All feedback is greatly appreciated, anonymous, and will be used to improve the quality of our articles.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Send bad feedback:

All feedback is greatly appreciated, anonymous, and will be used to improve the quality of our articles.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Search