Heptapeptide-39 Dimer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Heptapeptide-39 Dimer?

Heptapeptide-39 Dimer is a lab crafted chain of seven amino acids that has been paired with a twin copy of itself. The two strands are joined by a tiny sulfur link called a disulfide bridge, which helps keep the molecule stable on the skin. The original single strand, Heptapeptide-39, was first explored for its ability to leave skin feeling soft and smooth. Scientists later discovered that connecting two of the strands could improve its staying power and overall performance, leading to the creation of the dimer form that is now seen in cosmetics.

This peptide is produced through solid phase peptide synthesis, a precise step-by-step process that strings together amino acids in the right order. After both strands are built, the cysteine units are oxidized so a disulfide bridge forms, locking the pair together. The finished ingredient is purified, dried and blended into a carrier suited for skin care.

Heptapeptide-39 Dimer is found in a variety of leave-on products such as anti-aging serums, lightweight moisturizers, eye creams, hydrating primers, sheet masks and specialty treatments aimed at improving skin softness and resilience.

Heptapeptide-39 Dimer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas, Heptapeptide-39 Dimer is valued for one main role

Skin conditioning: The peptide helps skin feel smoother and more supple by supporting its natural moisture balance. Regular use can give the complexion a refreshed look and a softer touch, enhancing the overall sensory experience of the product.

Who Can Use Heptapeptide-39 Dimer

This peptide is gentle enough for most skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and mature skin. Its light, water-based nature means it will not add extra oil, so even blemish-prone complexions can usually enjoy it without worry. Highly sensitive skin tends to tolerate peptides well, though individual tolerances can differ.

Heptapeptide-39 Dimer is produced entirely through laboratory synthesis with no animal-derived inputs, so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.

There are no reported concerns for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when using topical products containing Heptapeptide-39 Dimer. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should review any skincare routine with a qualified medical professional to stay on the safe side.

The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity, so users do not need to take extra sun protection steps beyond the usual daily SPF recommendation.

Because it is non-comedogenic and lightweight, it can be used around the eye area and in multi-step routines without interfering with most other active ingredients.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Heptapeptide-39 Dimer vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects, but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is correctly formulated and applied.

  • Mild redness or warmth in the application area
  • Temporary itching or tingling as the product settles on the skin
  • Dry patches if the formula contains insufficient supporting hydrators
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to one of the formula’s other components
  • Pores becoming clogged when the peptide is paired with a heavy, occlusive base not suited to oily skin

If any irritation, swelling or persistent discomfort occurs, stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 out of 5. Heptapeptide-39 Dimer is a small, water soluble molecule that does not add oil or wax to a formula, so it will not block pores on its own. It simply dissolves in the watery phase of a product and rinses away from the skin surface with normal cleansing.

This makes the ingredient a safe pick for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

Any chance of congestion comes from the overall formula, not the peptide itself, so pairing it with a light base keeps the risk low.

Summary

Heptapeptide-39 Dimer is a lab made double-strand peptide used mainly for skin conditioning. It supports the skin’s own moisture balance so the surface feels soft and smooth. Because it is stable and water friendly it mixes easily into serums, lotions and eye treatments without leaving residue.

The peptide is still a niche addition, showing up in a handful of mid to high-end products rather than mass market lines, but interest is growing as brands look for new gentle actives.

Safety data shows the ingredient is low risk for most users with only rare minor irritation reports. As with any new skincare step it is wise to patch test first to confirm personal tolerance.

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