Heptapeptide-49 Sh-Decapeptide-8 Sp: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Heptapeptide-49 Sh-Decapeptide-8 Sp?

Heptapeptide-49 Sh-Decapeptide-8 Sp is a lab-made blend of two short protein fragments: a seven-amino-acid chain called Heptapeptide-49 and a ten-amino-acid chain known as sh-Decapeptide-8 Sp. When linked together they form a 17-amino-acid fusion peptide that may include tiny bridges called disulfide bonds or a touch of natural sugar decoration known as glycosylation. Because every amino acid in the sequence is one of the 20 standard building blocks of skin proteins the body recognises it and tolerates it well.

This ingredient has no plant or animal source; it is produced through solid-phase peptide synthesis, a step-by-step method that adds one amino acid at a time to build the exact desired sequence. The process allows strict control over purity and makes large-scale manufacturing reliable. Peptide research took off in the early 2000s when brands began using short chains to signal skin cells to act younger or calmer. Developers soon noticed that certain sequences could also dial down excess oil production, leading to the launch of Heptapeptide-49 Sh-Decapeptide-8 Sp for cosmetic use.

Today the peptide appears in lightweight serums, mattifying primers, oil-controlling moisturisers, leave-on spot treatments, sheet masks for shiny zones, scalp tonics and even setting sprays that aim to keep makeup fresh by keeping sebum in check.

Heptapeptide-49 Sh-Decapeptide-8 Sp’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This fusion peptide is prized for one main job in skincare: anti-sebum control. By helping to balance how much oil the sebaceous glands release, it can leave skin looking less shiny, feel drier to the touch and appear more refined. Regular use may make pores look smaller and lower the chance of clogged bumps since there is less excess oil to trap dead cells or dirt. The result is a smoother matte finish that lasts longer throughout the day and supports clear healthy-looking skin.

Who Can Use Heptapeptide-49 Sh-Decapeptide-8 Sp

This oil balancing peptide suits most skin types, especially combination, oily and acne-prone skin that struggles with shine. Normal skin can also benefit from a more matte finish. Very dry or compromised skin may find the oil reduction unnecessary or even a bit dehydrating so extra moisturiser might be needed.

Because the ingredient is fully synthetic and free from animal by-products it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. The manufacturing process relies on lab chemistry rather than animal or plant harvesting.

No data currently links the topical use of Heptapeptide-49 Sh-Decapeptide-8 Sp to pregnancy or breastfeeding risks. That said, this is not medical advice and expectant or nursing mothers should ask a doctor before adding any new skincare step.

The peptide does not increase photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Daily sunscreen is still advised for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

  • Mild redness or stinging right after application
  • Temporary tightness or dryness on very low-oil skin
  • Itching or small bumps in sensitive individuals
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases of peptide sensitivity
  • Interaction irritation when layered immediately with strong acids or prescription retinoids

If any discomfort, rash or worsening irritation occurs stop use and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0/5 (non-comedogenic)

Heptapeptide-49 Sh-Decapeptide-8 Sp is a small, water-soluble peptide blend that does not leave an occlusive film or add extra oil to the skin, so it has virtually no tendency to clog pores on its own. That makes it a comfortable pick for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

As with any ingredient, the finished product’s full formula matters. Heavy oils, waxes or thick silicones paired with the peptide could raise the overall comedogenic risk, so always consider the product as a whole.

Summary

Heptapeptide-49 Sh-Decapeptide-8 Sp is an oil-balancing fusion peptide that signals sebaceous glands to dial back sebum production, helping skin stay matte, feel smoother and look less congested. It is still a niche ingredient, showing up mainly in targeted serums, primers and masks aimed at oily or combination skin, but its profile is growing as brands look for gentle alternatives to drying astringents.

Current safety data and real-world use point to a low irritation risk, especially given its non-comedogenic, water-soluble nature. As with any new skincare addition, patch testing is a smart step before applying it to the whole face.

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