What Is Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12?
Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is a lab made ingredient created by attaching six carboxymethyl groups to a tiny two–amino-acid peptide, then neutralising the result with seven sodium ions. The finished material is a water-soluble powder that blends easily into lotions and serums. It does not come from plants or animals but from controlled chemical synthesis, which keeps it free of impurities and consistent from batch to batch.
Peptide technology entered skin care in the late 1990s, and formulators soon discovered that modifying peptides with carboxymethyl groups improved their stability and skin affinity. By the early 2010s Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 began appearing in premium brightening and age support products because it offered a gentle way to condition skin without the irritation linked to stronger actives.
Manufacturing starts with solid-phase peptide synthesis, where the two amino acids are joined in a precise sequence. The peptide is then reacted with monochloroacetic acid to add the carboxymethyl groups. Finally, sodium hydroxide is added to convert the acid form into the safer, more stable sodium salt. The compound is filtered, dried and milled into a fine powder ready for cosmetic use.
You will most often see Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 in lightweight serums, brightening essences, night creams, sheet masks, eye treatments and post-peel soothing gels. Its ability to condition skin without heaviness makes it a popular choice in both daily care and targeted treatment formulas.
Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is valued for one main function in topical products.
Skin conditioning: Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 helps skin feel softer, smoother and better hydrated. By supporting the surface barrier it can reduce dryness and improve overall texture, which gives the complexion a fresher, more even look. Because the molecule is small and water friendly it absorbs quickly, leaving no greasy after-feel and making it suitable for all skin types including sensitive skin.
Who Can Use Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12
Because it is lightweight and water soluble Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 works for oily, dry, combination and sensitive skin alike. It does not clog pores or leave residue so even acne-prone complexions tend to tolerate it well. The only group that may need extra caution is anyone with open wounds or active infections as most cosmetics are not meant for broken skin.
The ingredient is entirely synthetic so there is no animal input at any stage of production. That makes it suitable for vegans and vegetarians who wish to avoid animal derived materials.
No specific warnings link Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 to pregnancy or breastfeeding issues. Current data show low systemic absorption and a gentle safety profile, yet formal studies on expectant or nursing mothers are limited. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or breastfeeding should let their doctor review any product they plan to use just to be safe.
Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 does not increase photosensitivity so daytime use without additional sun risk is acceptable. It also layers well with most common actives such as niacinamide and hyaluronic acid making it easy to slot into existing routines.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 can vary from person to person. The points below outline potential issues that are possible yet unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild redness or warmth shortly after application
- Transient itching or tingling in very sensitive skin
- Dry patches if combined with high levels of alcohol or strong exfoliants in the same formula
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals already sensitised to peptide structures or other components in the product
If any of these effects occur discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5
Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is fully water soluble and leaves no oily film on the skin. It has a very small molecular size, rinses clean and does not trap dead cells or sebum inside pores. No published reports link it to breakouts, and routine industry tests class it as non-pore-clogging. For these reasons its comedogenic rating is 0.
Suitable for acne-prone or congestion-prone skin.
As with any water based active, the final formula matters. If the product also contains heavy waxes or rich oils the overall pore risk will depend on those ingredients, not on the peptide itself.
Summary
Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is a lab crafted dipeptide that conditions skin by softening surface texture, supporting moisture balance and giving a quicker, light feel than many richer actives. Its quick absorption and salt form help it glide into water based serums, eye gels and brightening treatments without leaving residue.
While not as famous as retinol or vitamin C, it has carved out a niche in mid to high tier formulas that promise gentle skin smoothing with minimal irritation. Formulators like its stability and compatibility with common ingredients such as niacinamide and panthenol.
Safety data show very low irritation, no photo risk and negligible pore clogging. Most people can use it with confidence, yet skin is personal so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains this peptide to confirm individual tolerance.