Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer?

Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer is a plant derived ingredient created from two well known oils. The first is Brassica campestris, better known as rapeseed, while the second is Aleurites fordi, commonly called tung oil. Each oil is first hydrogenated to make it more stable, then the two are chemically linked to form a smooth wax-like copolymer. This union combines the fatty acid profile of rapeseed with the quick-setting qualities of tung oil, giving formulators a versatile texture enhancer.

Interest in the copolymer grew in the late 1990s when brands started looking for bio-based substitutes for petroleum waxes. Its plant origin, reliable supply and balanced feel soon made it a favorite for companies that wanted a greener label without sacrificing performance.

Manufacturing begins by purifying each oil and passing hydrogen through them under heat and pressure. This converts double bonds into single bonds, boosting resistance to rancidity. The hydrogenated oils are then blended with a catalyst that helps the fatty chains link together. After filtering out the catalyst the finished copolymer is cooled and milled into beads or flakes ready for use in labs.

Thanks to its soft yet durable film, Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer shows up in many product types such as lipsticks, lip balms, mascaras, cream eyeshadows, moisturizing lotions, body butters, solid perfumes, hair pomades, sunscreens and barrier repair creams.

Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Below are the main ways this ingredient improves everyday beauty formulas.

  • Film forming – It lays down an even, flexible layer on skin or hair that locks in moisture, boosts color payoff and helps makeup stay put through heat and humidity
  • Skin conditioning – The fatty acids in the copolymer add a soft, cushioned feel to creams and balms, leaving skin smooth and comfortable rather than greasy

Who Can Use Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer

The copolymer suits most skin types including normal, dry and combination thanks to its lightweight waxy film that seals in water without leaving a heavy residue. Oily or acne prone skin can usually tolerate it as well since the ingredient has a low tendency to clog pores, though extremely breakout-prone users might prefer very minimal use of any occlusive agents. Sensitive skin generally fares well because the copolymer is inert and fragrance free.

Because it comes entirely from plant oils and no animal matter is used at any stage, it is acceptable for both vegans and vegetarians.

No data suggests harm during pregnancy or while nursing when the ingredient is applied topically in cosmetic amounts. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or breastfeeding should check with a healthcare professional before starting new skincare just to be safe.

The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known interactions with UV exposure. It also works well alongside common actives like retinoids or acids since it forms a breathable barrier rather than a tight seal.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical use of Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer vary from person to person. The points below list potential reactions but most users will not experience any of them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild skin irritation or redness in very sensitive individuals
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis in people allergic to rapeseed or tung derivatives
  • Temporary pore congestion for those already prone to clogged pores if applied in heavy layers
  • Eye irritation or watering if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Product build-up on hair shafts that can feel heavy or dull if shampoos are not used regularly to remove it

If any unwanted reaction occurs discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5. The copolymer is derived from highly refined rapeseed and tung oils that have been hydrogenated, a process that reduces the presence of reactive fatty acids typically linked to clogging. Its molecular size and wax-like structure sit on the skin surface rather than seeping deeply into pores, so it rarely triggers comedones. That said, very heavy or frequent application could still trap debris in acne-prone areas.

Suitable for most people who experience breakouts, though those with extremely congestion-prone skin may prefer to limit leave-on use in high-humidity climates.

Comedogenicity can vary slightly depending on the overall formula. Pairing it with lightweight esters or humectants keeps the finish breathable and minimizes the chance of pore blockage.

Summary

Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer serves mainly as a film former and skin conditioner. Once applied it melts at body temperature and sets into a flexible layer that locks in moisture, improves color payoff and lends products a smooth glide without a greasy feel.

Its plant origin and solid yet silky texture have earned it steady use in lipsticks, balms, mascaras and rich creams, though it remains a supporting player rather than a headline ingredient so you will not see it marketed as a star active.

Topical safety is high with minimal reports of irritation or allergy. Still, skin can react unpredictably so it is smart to patch test any new product that features the copolymer before full use.

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