What Is Hydrogenated Farnesene?
Hydrogenated farnesene, sometimes listed as farnesane or trimethyldodecane, is a clear odorless liquid hydrocarbon created by adding hydrogen to farnesene, a terpene naturally present in apples, citrus peel and other plants. The hydrogenation step saturates the molecule which gives it excellent stability and a silky light feel on skin.
Interest in the ingredient grew when formulators started searching for plant derived alternatives to heavier mineral oils and silicones. Thanks to its smooth slip and low greasiness, hydrogenated farnesene soon found a place in modern skin care and color cosmetics.
Commercial production usually begins with bio-fermentation of sugarcane or other renewable sugars to generate farnesene. The crude farnesene is purified then passed over a metal catalyst under controlled heat and pressure where hydrogen atoms attach to the molecule. The resulting hydrogenated farnesene is filtered and distilled before it heads to cosmetic labs.
You will most often spot it in lightweight moisturizers, face and body lotions, serums, sunscreens, makeup primers, foundations, hair conditioners, wash off masks and many anti aging creams that aim for a non greasy finish.
Hydrogenated Farnesene’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This versatile ingredient serves several roles that improve both product performance and the user experience.
- Skin conditioning: Forms a thin breathable layer that helps skin stay smooth, soft and supple while boosting overall comfort
- Emollient: Fills in tiny surface gaps which reduces roughness, enhances spreadability and gives formulas a light velvet touch without heaviness
- Solvent: Helps dissolve oil soluble actives, pigments and fragrances ensuring an even distribution and a clear stable mixture
Who Can Use Hydrogenated Farnesene
Thanks to its light non occlusive texture hydrogenated farnesene works well for most skin types. Oily and combination skin appreciate the dry finish that adds softness without leaving a film while dry or mature skin benefits from the added slip that reduces tightness when layered with richer hydrators. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it because it contains no fragrance or reactive functional groups although individual sensitivities are always possible. There are no specific skin types for which the ingredient is considered unsuitable.
The material is produced from plant sugar feedstocks and involves no animal derivatives or testing, so it is usually regarded as vegan and vegetarian friendly. Certifications vary by brand so strict vegans should still verify each finished product’s cruelty free status.
Current literature shows no known reproductive toxicity so products containing hydrogenated farnesene are not expected to pose a risk during pregnancy or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and pregnant or nursing users should have a healthcare professional review any skincare they plan to use just to be safe.
The ingredient does not absorb UV light and has no documented link to photosensitivity. It is also odorless, colorless and stable which means it does not degrade into irritating by-products when exposed to sunlight.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical hydrogenated farnesene vary from person to person and the following points list potential rather than expected reactions. When properly formulated most users will experience none of these issues.
- Mild transient redness or itching
- Stinging on application to compromised or broken skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to hydrocarbons
- Possible pore congestion in people extremely prone to breakouts when used in very high concentrations
If any of these reactions occur discontinue use and seek medical advice if irritation persists.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Hydrogenated farnesene has a small straight chain structure that spreads quickly then evaporates or absorbs without leaving a thick film. It is less greasy than many plant oils and contains no fatty acids that bacteria feed on, so it rarely clogs pores. Because of this low likelihood of blockage it is generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
Formulators often use it to replace higher-risk emollients such as coconut oil or certain butters which makes it a useful option in lightweight moisturizers and foundations aimed at oily complexions.
Summary
Hydrogenated farnesene conditions skin, works as a silky emollient and acts as a solvent for oil-loving actives. It achieves these goals by forming a thin breathable layer that smooths rough patches while helping other ingredients spread evenly and stay stable.
The ingredient is gaining popularity as brands look for plant derived alternatives to mineral oil and silicones though it is still less common than classic esters and oils.
Current data show a low irritation profile and virtually no safety concerns at typical use levels. As with any new cosmetic, give items containing hydrogenated farnesene a quick patch test to confirm personal compatibility.