Hydrogenated Soy Polyglycerides/Soyamide Dea: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hydrogenated Soy Polyglycerides/Soyamide Dea?

Hydrogenated Soy Polyglycerides/Soyamide DEA is a soy-derived ingredient made by combining hydrogenated soy polyglycerides with Soyamide DEA, a compound that comes from soya fatty acids and diethanolamine. The hydrogenation step turns the natural soy oils into more stable, saturated fats, giving the final material a butter-like texture that is easier to handle and less likely to spoil. First explored in the 1980s as chemists searched for plant-based alternatives to animal fats, it gained popularity once formulators saw how well it softened skin without feeling greasy.

The production process starts with non-GMO refined soybean oil. The oil is split into fatty acids and glycerin, then the fatty acids are hydrogenated to improve shelf life. Multiple glycerin molecules are joined to form polyglycerides, which are later reacted with the hydrogenated fatty acids. Finally, this mix is blended with Soyamide DEA under controlled heat and pressure, yielding a creamy paste that disperses smoothly in both water-based and oil-based systems.

Because of its versatile texture and skin-conditioning ability, Hydrogenated Soy Polyglycerides/Soyamide DEA shows up in a wide range of products: daily face and body moisturizers, rich night creams, cleansing balms, makeup removers, hydrating sheet masks, hand lotions, hair conditioners and even shaving creams where it gives slip and softness.

Hydrogenated Soy Polyglycerides/Soyamide Dea’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking ingredient earns its place on labels thanks to the following roles

  • Emollient – Smooths and softens the skin surface, helping to reduce rough patches and give formulas a silky after-feel
  • Cleansing – Lifts away oil-based impurities and makeup, allowing gentle removal without stripping skin of moisture
  • Viscosity Controlling – Thickens or stabilizes the texture of creams, gels and lotions so they spread evenly and stay consistent over time

Who Can Use Hydrogenated Soy Polyglycerides/Soyamide Dea

Thanks to its buttery yet lightweight feel this ingredient is generally well tolerated by most skin types, from dry and mature to normal and combination. Very oily or acne prone users may find rich formulas containing it feel a touch heavy, so lighter textures are a better pick for them.

Hydrogenated Soy Polyglycerides/Soyamide DEA is made entirely from plant sources and synthesized additives so it is suitable for both vegetarians and vegans. No animal derived materials are involved in its production.

Current safety assessments show no specific risks for pregnancy or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used in typical cosmetic amounts. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should have a doctor review any skincare product they plan to use.

The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to the sun, so no extra sun precautions are needed beyond daily SPF.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Skin responses can vary from one person to another. The issues listed below are only potential effects and are unlikely for the average user when the product is made and used as directed.

  • Mild skin irritation in people with very sensitive skin or existing dermatitis
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals with a known soy allergy or sensitivity to diethanolamine
  • Temporary breakouts if a heavy formula traps sebum on acne prone skin
  • Eye stinging if a cleansing product containing the ingredient is rubbed into the eye area and not rinsed fully
  • Nitrosamine concern because DEA can form trace nitrosamines when it contacts certain preservatives, though reputable brands test to keep levels far below safety limits

If any redness, itching or other discomfort appears stop using the product and seek medical advice if symptoms persist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 out of 5

Hydrogenated Soy Polyglycerides/Soyamide DEA sits in the low-to-moderate range because its fatty acid backbone can occlude pores if used at high levels, yet the molecule is bulky and less likely to penetrate deeply. Most leave-on products use it at modest percentages where it rarely triggers clogged pores.

Generally suitable for acne-prone skin when found in light lotions or cleansers, though very oily users may prefer gel textures with lower amounts.

Formulation matters: pairing the ingredient with fast-absorbing esters or mattifying agents further reduces any pore-blocking risk.

Summary

Hydrogenated Soy Polyglycerides/Soyamide DEA acts as an emollient, a mild cleanser and a viscosity controller. Its soy-based fats coat the skin surface to soften rough spots, its amphiphilic structure helps dissolve makeup and excess oil, and its semi-solid consistency thickens creams so they spread evenly.

While not a household name it is quietly popular among formulators who want plant-derived texture without heaviness, showing up in everything from night creams to cleansing balms.

Regulatory reviews classify it as low risk when used at cosmetic levels and reputable brands monitor nitrosamine impurities, so safety concerns are minimal. As with any new product a small patch test is wise before full-face use especially for those with soy or DEA sensitivities.

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