Hydrogenated Tallowoyl Glutamic Acid: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hydrogenated Tallowoyl Glutamic Acid?

Hydrogenated Tallowoyl Glutamic Acid is a fatty acid derivative made by linking glutamic acid, a naturally occurring amino acid, to hydrogenated tallow, a purified form of animal fat that has been treated with hydrogen to make it more stable. The result is a mild, skin-friendly compound that behaves like a lipid, helping formulas spread easily and feel smooth.

Chemists began experimenting with amino acid–fatty acid combinations in the mid-20th century while searching for gentler cleansers than traditional soap. Over time, this particular pairing gained popularity because it delivered both mild cleansing and conditioning in one ingredient. As cosmetic science advanced, manufacturers refined the process by using high-pressure hydrogenation and controlled reaction steps to ensure consistent quality and low odor.

The material is produced by first hydrogenating tallow to create a saturated fat, then reacting it with glutamic acid in the presence of a catalyst. After purification and drying, the resulting powder or flakes are ready for use in cosmetic labs.

You will most often see Hydrogenated Tallowoyl Glutamic Acid in facial cleansers, body washes, shampoos, moisturizing lotions, leave-in hair masks, creamy makeup removers and soothing after-shave balms. Formulators like it because it can replace harsher surfactants while adding a soft, cushioned feel.

Hydrogenated Tallowoyl Glutamic Acid’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking ingredient offers several helpful roles in beauty products:

  • Cleansing: Acts as a gentle surfactant that lifts away dirt, oil and makeup without stripping natural moisture, leaving skin or hair comfortable and balanced
  • Hair Conditioning: Deposits a light film on strands that reduces static, improves comb-through and boosts softness for smoother looking hair
  • Skin Conditioning: Helps reinforce the skin’s lipid layer, enhancing hydration and giving formulas a plush, non-greasy finish

Who Can Use Hydrogenated Tallowoyl Glutamic Acid

Because it is a mild cleansing and conditioning agent, Hydrogenated Tallowoyl Glutamic Acid is generally well tolerated by normal, dry, combination and even sensitive skin types. Very oily or acne-prone skin should still do well with it thanks to its lightweight finish, though those users may prefer formulas that pair it with oil-controlling ingredients for best results.

The ingredient is derived from tallow, a form of animal fat, so it is not suitable for vegans or strict vegetarians. Anyone following a plant-based lifestyle may want to look for lab-made or plant-based amino acid surfactants instead.

No specific warnings exist for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Current data show it is not systemically absorbed in meaningful amounts, so topical use is considered low risk. This is not medical advice and pregnant or nursing individuals should confirm any skincare choice with their healthcare provider to be safe.

Hydrogenated Tallowoyl Glutamic Acid does not cause photosensitivity, meaning it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daytime sun protection habits are still recommended when using any cosmetic routine.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to the topical use of Hydrogenated Tallowoyl Glutamic Acid can vary from person to person. The following list covers potential issues, but most consumers will not experience them when using a well-formulated product

  • Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching, most often in those with very reactive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to animal-derived fatty acids
  • Follicular clogging or breakouts in users already highly prone to acne, especially if the overall formula is very rich
  • Residue build-up on hair leading to limpness when the ingredient is used in high concentrations without clarifying shampoos in between

If any discomfort, rash or other unexpected reaction occurs stop use immediately and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2/5

The ingredient is partly lipid based so it can leave a light emollient film, but its bulkier structure and modest use levels in formulas keep pore-clogging potential fairly low. Most people, including those who break out occasionally, tolerate it without issues.

Very acne prone users may still want to stick with lighter textures, and remember that other heavy oils or waxes in the same product can raise the overall comedogenic load.

Summary

Hydrogenated Tallowoyl Glutamic Acid works as a gentle cleanser, skin conditioner and hair softener by pairing an amino acid with a saturated fatty acid. It lifts away grime while reinforcing the skin barrier and smoothing hair cuticles, leaving a comfortable non greasy feel.

The ingredient is somewhat under the radar compared with plant based surfactants and silicones, yet formulators value its ability to combine cleansing and conditioning in one step.

Safety tests show a low risk of irritation or systemic absorption so most users can apply it confidently. Even so, performing a quick patch test when trying any new product that contains it is always a smart move.

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