Hydrolyzed Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hydrolyzed Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract?

Hydrolyzed Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract comes from the root of Polygonum multiflorum, a climbing plant in the buckwheat family that grows across East Asia. The root, often called Fo-Ti or He Shou Wu, has been valued in traditional beauty rituals for generations. To create the cosmetic ingredient, the dried root is first extracted in water or a mild solvent, then the extract is broken down through hydrolysis with acids or natural enzymes. This step chops large molecules into smaller, water-soluble fragments that absorb quickly into the skin and stay stable in modern formulas.

The gentle profile of the hydrolyzed extract has made it a popular add-in for creams, lotions and serums aimed at boosting skin vitality. You will also spot it in sheet masks, overnight masks, anti aging blends, soothing gels and lightweight daily moisturizers where brands want plant-based conditioning without a greasy feel.

Hydrolyzed Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators choose this plant-derived extract for two well-documented roles in skin care products.

  • Skin conditioning: The hydrolyzed molecules bind water to the skin surface, leaving it soft, smooth and supple. Regular use can improve overall texture and give a healthier looking glow.
  • Skin protecting: It forms a thin, breathable film that helps shield the skin from daily environmental stress. This light barrier reduces moisture loss throughout the day and supports the skin’s natural resilience.

Who Can Use Hydrolyzed Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract

This plant extract is gentle enough for most skin types. Normal, dry and combination skin often welcome its moisture-binding effect while oily skin appreciates the fact that it is water based and non greasy. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because it does not contain common irritants, though very reactive users should stay alert when trying any new formula.

Because the ingredient comes from a root and no animal by-products are involved in the hydrolysis step, it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

Current research shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the extract is used topically in cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new skincare products, just to be safe.

The extract is not known to cause photosensitivity so it does not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daytime sun protection is still recommended for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Hydrolyzed Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects that could occur even though most users will not notice any problems when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.

  • Mild redness or flushing
  • Itching or stinging on sensitive skin
  • Localized rash or contact dermatitis in those allergic to buckwheat family plants
  • Dry patches if used in a formula with high alcohol content
  • Darkening of existing hyperpigmentation if irritation occurs and is left untreated

If any of these reactions develop stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional if the symptoms do not settle quickly.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0–1

Hydrolyzed Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract is water based and contains no heavy oils, waxes or pore clogging fatty acids. Its small, hydrolyzed molecules sit lightly on the skin and rinse off easily, so they are unlikely to block follicles. For this reason formulators generally regard it as non comedogenic, placing it at 0 or at most 1 on the 0-5 scale.

Because of this low rating it is considered suitable for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts.

The final comedogenicity of any product will still depend on the full formula, so users with very reactive skin should look at the entire ingredient list rather than this single extract in isolation.

Summary

Hydrolyzed Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract works mainly as a skin conditioning and protecting agent. The hydrolysis step breaks the plant root compounds into smaller fragments that bind water to the skin surface, soften rough patches and create a light breathable film that guards against daily moisture loss. These combined actions help the skin look smoother more resilient and subtly radiant.

While not yet a household name it is gaining traction in niche K-beauty lines and natural inspired serums where brands look for gentle plant alternatives to synthetic humectants.

Current data shows it to be a very safe topical ingredient with only rare reports of irritation in people allergic to buckwheat family plants. As with any new skincare item it is smart to test a small area first so you can confirm personal compatibility before committing to full face use.

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