Hydroxyethyl Diethylenetriamine Dioleamide/Palmitamide: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Hydroxyethyl Diethylenetriamine Dioleamide/Palmitamide?

Hydroxyethyl Diethylenetriamine Dioleamide/Palmitamide is a fatty amide made by joining parts of oleic and palmitic acids from natural oils with a small nitrogen-rich backbone called diethylenetriamine, then adding a single hydroxyethyl group. Makers start with plant oils such as olive or palm, split the oils to free the fatty acids, react them with diethylenetriamine to form an amide, then finish the process with a gentle ethoxylation step that improves water compatibility. Chemists first explored this type of molecule in the late twentieth century while searching for milder, more sustainable hair care ingredients. Today it shows up in rinse-off and leave-in products including shampoos, daily conditioners, deep-treatment masks, co-washes, serums and styling creams where soft touch and reduced static are key selling points.

Hydroxyethyl Diethylenetriamine Dioleamide/Palmitamide’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is classed as a hair conditioning agent, meaning it sticks lightly to the hair shaft to smooth the cuticle, tame frizz and boost shine. In a formula it helps hair feel softer after washing, makes combing easier when wet or dry and cuts down on flyaways caused by static build-up. The result is hair that looks healthier, feels silkier and is easier to style without adding heavy buildup.

Who Can Use Hydroxyethyl Diethylenetriamine Dioleamide/Palmitamide

This conditioner is considered gentle enough for most hair and scalp types including oily, dry, normal and color treated strands. People with very sensitive or medically compromised scalps should still take care because any additive, even a mild one, can sometimes trigger irritation in those situations.

The ingredient is usually made from plant oils so it is generally suitable for vegans and vegetarians. That said, a few manufacturers may source the fatty acids from animal fat so anyone following a strict lifestyle should look for a clear plant based or certified vegan label.

There are no known issues tied to pregnancy or breastfeeding when the ingredient is used in rinse off or leave in hair products. This is not medical advice; expectant or nursing mothers should run every personal care product past a qualified health professional to be on the safe side.

Hydroxyethyl Diethylenetriamine Dioleamide/Palmitamide is not linked to photosensitivity so it will not make hair or scalp more prone to sun damage. It is also compatible with common hair dyes and chemical treatments.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to Hydroxyethyl Diethylenetriamine Dioleamide/Palmitamide vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects yet most users will not experience any problems when the ingredient is properly formulated.

  • Mild scalp redness or itching in sensitive individuals
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases
  • Eye irritation if the product accidentally runs into the eyes
  • Product buildup or limp feel on very fine hair when overused

If any unwanted reaction occurs stop using the product and seek medical advice as needed.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 out of 5. Hydroxyethyl Diethylenetriamine Dioleamide/Palmitamide is a large, water-friendly fatty amide that tends to stay on the hair cuticle rather than sink into facial pores. Its plant-oil roots might suggest heaviness, yet the added hydroxyethyl group keeps the molecule more dispersible in water which lowers its clogging potential. Because of this it is generally suitable even for people who are prone to acne or breakouts when used in hair products that get rinsed or kept on the scalp.

Since the ingredient is formulated for hair rather than skin, real-world exposure of facial pores is minimal. Only in leave-in products that touch the hairline could pore-clogging become a concern and even then the risk remains low.

Summary

Hydroxyethyl Diethylenetriamine Dioleamide/Palmitamide is a plant-derived hair conditioning agent that smooths the cuticle, cuts static and leaves strands softer and shinier. It works by lightly coating the hair surface with a thin, fatty layer that locks down lifted scales and helps hair slide instead of snag.

The ingredient sits in the middle of the popularity chart. It shows up in some modern shampoos, conditioners and masks yet it has not reached the household-name status of silicones or quats. Formulators like it when they want a biodegradable, plant-leaning alternative that still delivers slip.

Safety data point to a low irritation and allergen profile in most users. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is smart to do a quick patch test before full use just to rule out personal sensitivity.

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