What Is Hydroxylauryl/Hydroxymyristyl Betaine?
Hydroxylauryl/Hydroxymyristyl Betaine is an amphoteric surfactant created by linking naturally sourced fatty acids from coconut or palm oil with a betaine group that carries both positive and negative charges. Chemically known as N-(2-Hydroxy-C12- and C14-alkyl)-N,N-dimethylammonioacetate, it has a C12-C14 carbon chain length that gives it the right balance of cleansing power and skin friendliness.
Betaine surfactants first appeared in the 1950s as milder alternatives to harsher soaps. Scientists later added a hydroxyl group to the lauryl and myristyl chains to boost solubility and softness, which led to Hydroxylauryl/Hydroxymyristyl Betaine finding a home in modern gentle cleansers, especially those marketed as sulfate free.
Manufacturing starts with plant-derived fatty alcohols that are reacted with dimethylaminopropylamine to form an amidoamine. This intermediate is then quaternized with monochloroacetic acid, followed by controlled hydroxylation, yielding a water-soluble liquid that formulators can easily add during the cool-down phase of production.
You will most often spot Hydroxylauryl/Hydroxymyristyl Betaine in foaming face washes, micellar waters, shampoos, baby cleansers, body washes, bubble baths, sheet mask essences, makeup removers and lightweight hair conditioners where a mild yet effective cleansing action is needed.
Hydroxylauryl/Hydroxymyristyl Betaine’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ingredient improves both how a product works and how it feels.
- Cleansing: Its amphoteric nature loosens dirt, oil and makeup without stripping skin or hair, producing a soft creamy lather that rinses away easily and leaves a smooth after-feel
- Viscosity controlling: It helps thicken watery formulas so shampoos or face washes have a pleasing body, stay on the skin long enough to cleanse properly and pour smoothly from the bottle
Who Can Use Hydroxylauryl/Hydroxymyristyl Betaine
This gentle surfactant is generally well tolerated by all skin types including oily, combination, dry and sensitive skin because it cleans without aggressively removing the skin’s natural oils. People with very dry or compromised skin should still follow with a moisturizer, but the ingredient itself is unlikely to worsen dryness.
Hydroxylauryl/Hydroxymyristyl Betaine is manufactured from plant derived fatty acids so products that contain it are normally suitable for vegans and vegetarians. If ethical sourcing is important to you, look for brands that use certified sustainable coconut or palm oil.
Current safety data does not flag any specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any new product to their healthcare provider before use just to be safe.
The ingredient does not cause photosensitivity and will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also plays well with common skincare actives and preservatives so there are no known incompatibilities worth noting.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to Hydroxylauryl/Hydroxymyristyl Betaine vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild skin irritation such as temporary redness or itching
- Eye stinging if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals who are sensitized to betaine surfactants
- In very rare cases increased scalp or skin dryness when used in high concentration or alongside other strong cleansers
If you develop any of these side effects discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5
Hydroxylauryl/Hydroxymyristyl Betaine is highly water soluble and used almost exclusively in rinse off formulas, so it does not linger on the skin long enough to block pores. Its molecular structure is bulky and amphoteric, making it unlikely to mix with skin sebum or form a film that traps debris. For these reasons it earns a solid zero on the comedogenic scale.
Because of this low rating, the ingredient is considered suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
As with any surfactant, using overly concentrated products or failing to rinse thoroughly could leave a residue that might contribute to congestion, but such situations are uncommon in well formulated cleansers.
Summary
Hydroxylauryl/Hydroxymyristyl Betaine is valued for two main jobs: it lifts away dirt, oil and makeup while keeping the skin and hair surface calm, and it thickens watery formulas so cleansers feel creamy and stable. It performs these roles by carrying both positive and negative charges that attract impurities, whip up a gentle foam and interact with other ingredients to build viscosity.
The ingredient is moderately popular in sulfate free face washes, shampoos and baby cleansers where a mild touch is needed. You may not see it headlining marketing campaigns as often as some newer exotic additives, but formulators reach for it when they want reliable performance without harshness.
Current evidence shows it to be very safe for regular use, with only a small risk of irritation for highly sensitive individuals. As with any new product, do a quick patch test before full application just to be on the safe side.