What Is Hydroxystearic Acid/Adipic Acid/Glycerin Crosspolymer?
Hydroxystearic Acid/Adipic Acid/Glycerin Crosspolymer is a plant derived network of three well known molecules. Hydroxystearic acid comes from castor or other vegetable oils, adipic acid is a synthetic dicarboxylic acid often used in food and cosmetics, and glycerin is the classic skin friendly humectant obtained from plant oils. Chemists link these three into a flexible grid, forming a soft solid that can be milled into a fine powder or delivered as a pre dispersed slurry. The result is an easy to use ingredient that swells slightly when mixed with water or oils, helping formulas hold together and feel silky.
The technology appeared in the early 2000s when formulators were looking for greener, silicone free ways to thicken and stabilize emulsions. By crosslinking natural building blocks they created a material that could mimic the glide of silicones without relying on petroleum based chemistry. Today manufacturers produce the polymer in closed reactors where the acids and glycerin are heated, then cooled and pulverized. Because it can work in both water in oil and oil in water systems it quickly found a home in many mainstream products.
You will spot Hydroxystearic Acid/Adipic Acid/Glycerin Crosspolymer in light fluid moisturizers, richer night creams, color cosmetics like foundations, sheet mask essences, lip balms, sun care, anti aging serums and even some hair styling creams. Its versatility lets brands use one multitasking ingredient instead of several separate thickeners and feel modifiers.
Hydroxystearic Acid/Adipic Acid/Glycerin Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient plays several key roles in a formula, making it popular across product categories
- Emulsion stabilising – helps keep oil and water mixed so the product stays smooth, preventing separation in the jar or bottle and extending shelf life
- Emollient – softens skin on contact, giving a conditioned feel without greasiness and improving spreadability
- Occlusive – forms a light breathable film that slows water loss from the skin surface, supporting long lasting hydration
- Emulsifying – assists primary emulsifiers by lowering surface tension, allowing smaller droplet size which leads to a lighter texture and better delivery of active ingredients
Who Can Use Hydroxystearic Acid/Adipic Acid/Glycerin Crosspolymer
Because it is gentle and non reactive this polymer suits most skin types including dry, normal or oily skin. Its light occlusive film helps dry skin hold moisture while the non greasy finish makes it comfortable for combination and oily complexions. The only group that might prefer lower levels are people who struggle with very stubborn, cystic acne since any film forming agent can occasionally feel too rich for them.
The raw materials are plant based or fully synthetic with no animal processing so products using this ingredient are usually acceptable to vegans and vegetarians. A quick check of the overall formula is still recommended to confirm no other animal derived components are present.
Current data shows no reproductive toxicity so products containing Hydroxystearic Acid/Adipic Acid/Glycerin Crosspolymer are generally considered safe for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should discuss new skincare products with a doctor first just to be sure.
The polymer does not absorb UV light or make skin more sensitive to the sun so it is not classified as a photosensitiser. You can safely use it morning or night alongside daily sunscreen.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Hydroxystearic Acid/Adipic Acid/Glycerin Crosspolymer vary from person to person. The following points outline potential side effects but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used at normal cosmetic levels.
- Mild irritation or redness in very sensitive skin
- Transient stinging if applied to broken or freshly exfoliated skin
- Clogged pores or small breakouts in individuals highly prone to comedogenic reactions
- Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases of specific sensitivities to fatty acids
If you notice any persistent discomfort, discoloration or swelling stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5 (low)
This low score is due to the ingredient’s large, cross-linked structure which keeps most of the fatty acid parts from settling into pores. It sits on the surface to give slip and hold water but does not sink deeply the way pure oils or waxes can. Formulas usually include it at a few percent, further reducing any clogging risk.
Most people who are prone to acne or breakouts can use products containing this polymer without extra worry.
If a product also contains richer butters or heavy silicones the overall formula could still feel too occlusive for some users, so check the full ingredient list if you know you clog easily.
Summary
Hydroxystearic Acid/Adipic Acid/Glycerin Crosspolymer works as an emulsion stabiliser, emollient, light occlusive and helper emulsifier. Its mesh-like particles swell a little in water or oil, tightening the bond between droplets so creams stay smooth. At the same time the polymer lays down a thin, silky film that softens skin and slows moisture loss without a greasy after-feel.
It is not as famous as hyaluronic acid or niacinamide yet it pops up in many moisturisers, sunscreens and makeup bases because it can replace several separate texture agents at once. Brands like the clean profile and the pleasant skin feel.
Safety reviews and real-world use show a very low risk of irritation or toxicity. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product containing this ingredient before applying it to the entire face.