Illicium Verum Fruit Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Illicium Verum Fruit Extract?

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract comes from the dried, star-shaped fruit of the star anise tree, Illicium verum, native to parts of China and Vietnam. The fruit is rich in aromatic compounds such as anethole, which gives star anise its familiar licorice-like scent, along with small amounts of flavonoids and organic acids that can help condition the skin.

Star anise has been valued for centuries in cooking and perfumery. Its warm, spicy aroma made it a natural fit for scented soaps and creams long before modern cosmetics took shape. As formulation science advanced, manufacturers learned to isolate a gentle extract that keeps the pleasant fragrance while delivering light skin-softening properties.

The process usually begins with sustainably harvested fruits that are cleaned, dried and milled. The ground material is then steeped in a food-grade solvent such as ethanol or a mix of water and glycerin. After filtration and concentration, formulators are left with a clear to amber liquid that slots easily into water-based or emulsion-type products.

You will most often see Illicium Verum Fruit Extract in facial cleansers, hand and body lotions, lightly fragranced creams, sheet masks, hair conditioners and refreshing face mists where a subtle natural scent and a touch of skin conditioning are both welcome.

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This plant extract earns its place on an ingredient list because it pulls double duty in a formula

  • Perfuming: The natural anethole content offers a sweet, spicy aroma that helps mask any unwanted raw material odors and gives products a pleasant, comforting scent without relying solely on synthetic fragrance
  • Skin conditioning: Lightly coats the skin surface, helping it feel smoother and softer while supporting a well-balanced, refreshed complexion

Who Can Use Illicium Verum Fruit Extract

Because this extract is lightweight and non-occlusive, it tends to suit most skin types including normal, combination and oily skin. Dry skin may also enjoy its softening effect, though it will likely need richer supporting ingredients. Very sensitive or reactive skin should proceed with a little extra caution, as the natural aromatic compounds that give star anise its scent can occasionally provoke redness or stinging in those who are fragrance-intolerant.

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract is entirely plant based so it is considered suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. No animal-derived solvents or processing aids are typically used during extraction, but ethically minded shoppers can look for a brand’s specific sourcing statement to be certain.

Topical use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding is generally viewed as low risk at the modest levels found in cosmetics, however safety data is not extensive. This information is not medical advice and anyone pregnant or nursing should review any product that contains star anise extract with a qualified healthcare provider before use to be safe.

The ingredient is not known to cause photosensitivity, meaning it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also works well alongside common actives like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and mild exfoliating acids without notable conflicts.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Individual responses to Illicium Verum Fruit Extract can differ. The following points outline potential side effects though most users will never encounter them when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.

  • Skin irritation such as mild burning or stinging, especially on very sensitive or compromised skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis resulting in redness, itching or small bumps
  • Eye irritation if a product containing the extract migrates too close to the lash line
  • Potential cross-reaction for people already allergic to other spice or essential oil components containing anethole

If any discomfort, persistent redness or other adverse effect appears stop using the product and consult a medical professional for advice.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract is typically delivered in very small amounts and has a thin, non-greasy texture with minimal fatty components, so it is highly unlikely to clog pores. Most of its makeup is volatile aromatic molecules rather than heavier lipids that could sit inside follicles.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, although individual reactions can always vary.

No evidence suggests the extract feeds acne-causing bacteria or interferes with common anti-acne ingredients, making it a low-risk option in well-formulated products.

Summary

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract acts mainly as a perfuming and skin-conditioning agent. Its natural anethole provides a warm spicy scent that masks raw material odors while its mild flavonoids and organic acids leave skin feeling softer and smoother.

It is not a superstar active but enjoys steady use in gentle cleansers, light lotions and body care where a touch of botanical fragrance is welcome. You will not find it topping trend charts yet its pleasant aroma keeps it in the formulator’s toolkit.

Overall safety is considered high with low irritation and almost no comedogenic risk at cosmetic levels. As with any new skincare product a simple patch test is smart practice to make sure your skin agrees with the formula.

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