What Is Isododecyl/Perfluorononylethyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Citrate?
Isododecyl/Perfluorononylethyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Citrate is a specialty ester blend created by linking fatty acids from linoleic acid and citric acid to two different alcohols Isododecanol and perfluorononyl ethyl alcohol. The result is a silky fluid that combines the light feel of isododecane with the water-repelling traits of fluorinated chains. First developed in the early 2000s when chemists were searching for longer-lasting, non-greasy skin conditioners, it soon found a place in color cosmetics and long-wear skin care.
The manufacturing process begins with plant-derived linoleic acid that is dimerized to make it more stable. This dimer acid is reacted with citric acid to form a multi-functional backbone, then esterified with highly branched Isododecanol for slip and with perfluorononyl ethyl alcohol for durability and a smooth finish. Strict temperature control keeps the reaction gentle so the final ingredient remains clear and low in odor.
Because it spreads easily yet leaves a soft, protective film, Isododecyl/Perfluorononylethyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Citrate is often used in long-wear foundations, lipsticks, primers, setting sprays, high-SPF sunscreens, light moisturizers and anti-aging serums. It helps these formulas feel weightless while improving their staying power on the skin.
Isododecyl/Perfluorononylethyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Citrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient pulls its weight in formulas by conditioning skin and boosting texture
- Skin conditioning: Forms a thin, breathable layer that softens rough patches, smooths fine lines and leaves skin feeling velvety without stickiness
- Emollient: Adds slip so products glide on easily, reduces moisture loss and enhances the spread of pigments or UV filters for an even finish
Who Can Use Isododecyl/Perfluorononylethyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Citrate
This silky ester blend suits most skin types because it delivers a weightless feel and does not trap heat or sweat. Oily and combination skin usually appreciate its non-greasy texture while normal skin enjoys the smooth finish. Very dry skin can still use it but may want a richer cream on top since the ingredient is more of a light conditioner than a heavy barrier. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it thanks to its low odor and lack of common irritants, though anyone with a history of reacting to fluorinated materials should proceed with caution.
The raw materials are plant derived or synthetically produced, with no animal sourced components, so the ingredient is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly.
Current safety data show no known risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is applied topically in cosmetics. Absorption through intact skin is minimal, yet this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review any skincare routine with their doctor to stay on the safe side.
Unlike certain essential oils or citrus extracts, Isododecyl/Perfluorononylethyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Citrate is not known to cause photosensitivity. In fact, its water-repelling film can help stabilize UV filters in sunscreens, giving formulas a longer-lasting shield outdoors.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can vary from person to person. The following points outline potential but uncommon side effects associated with topical use of Isododecyl/Perfluorononylethyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Citrate assuming it has been correctly formulated in a finished product.
• Mild redness or irritation in very sensitive individuals, typically resolving after the product is removed
• Allergic contact dermatitis marked by itching or small bumps, though documented cases are rare
• Temporary clogged pores in highly acne-prone users if the rest of the routine is already rich in film-forming agents
• Reduced penetration of water-based actives when layered underneath due to the breathable yet water-repellent film it leaves on skin
If you notice any persistent discomfort, swelling or rash stop using the product and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
This low score reflects the ingredient’s highly branched isododecane portion that evaporates quickly and the fluorinated chain that forms a thin breathable film rather than a heavy wax. While it can sit on the surface to boost wear time it does not sink deeply into pores or leave an oily residue that feeds acne bacteria.
Most people who are prone to breakouts should find it acceptable in well balanced formulas although those with extremely reactive skin might still prefer to limit multiple film formers in the same routine.
Because the industry still lacks large-scale studies on every specialty ester it is wise to keep an eye on how your own skin responds when using long-wear products that rely on this ingredient.
Summary
Isododecyl/Perfluorononylethyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Citrate acts mainly as a skin conditioner and lightweight emollient. The isododecane part gives slip and a quick-dry feel while the fluorinated side helps the blend spread evenly and resist water loss, leaving skin smoother and makeup longer lasting.
It shows up most often in long-wear foundations, lip colors and high-SPF sunscreens rather than everyday creams so its popularity is steady but still niche compared with classic emollients like jojoba or dimethicone.
Current safety data rate it as low risk for irritation or sensitization when used as directed. As with any new cosmetic it is smart to patch test a small area first to be sure your skin plays nicely with it.