What Is Isooctyl Caprylate/Caprate?
Isooctyl Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight liquid ester created by joining a branched eight-carbon alcohol with a mixture of caprylic and capric fatty acids, which are most often sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil. The result is a clear, low-viscosity ingredient that spreads easily and leaves a soft, non-greasy feel on skin.
Chemists began turning to this ester in the late 1970s when the beauty industry was searching for plant-based alternatives to heavier mineral oils. Its ability to mimic the slip of silicone without the same occlusive weight quickly made it a formulating favorite.
Production starts with refining natural oils to isolate caprylic and capric acids. These acids are then reacted with synthetic branched octyl alcohol in a controlled, high-temperature esterification process. The finished ester is purified and quality-checked before it ships to cosmetic labs worldwide.
Because it feels silky yet dry, Isooctyl Caprylate/Caprate shows up in a wide range of products: daily moisturizers, facial oils, anti aging serums, primers, foundations, sunscreens, sheet masks, hair conditioners and even gentle baby lotions. Its versatility lets formulators lower greasiness, improve spreadability and boost overall sensory appeal.
Isooctyl Caprylate/Caprate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking ester offers several performance perks in skin and hair care formulas.
- Antioxidant – helps protect the finished product from oxidative spoilage so textures, colors and fragrances stay stable for longer
- Plasticiser – softens film-forming polymers in makeup or sunscreen, preventing cracking and improving flexibility on skin
- Skin Conditioning – smooths the skin surface, enhancing softness and giving a subtle, healthy-looking sheen
- Emollient – fills in tiny gaps between skin cells to reduce moisture loss, leaving skin feeling supple without a heavy afterfeel
Who Can Use Isooctyl Caprylate/Caprate
Because it is a light, fast-absorbing emollient, Isooctyl Caprylate/Caprate suits most skin types, including oily, combination, normal and mildly dry skin. Its non-greasy feel makes it a welcome alternative to heavier oils for those who dislike residue. Extremely dry or compromised skin may need a richer occlusive on top for full moisture retention, and people with a known sensitivity to fatty alcohols or esters should approach with care.
The ingredient is typically sourced from plant oils and synthesized without animal by-products, so it is considered suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. When in doubt, check the brand’s supplier documentation to confirm no animal-derived processing aids were used.
Current safety data show no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the ester is used at cosmetic levels. This is not medical advice, and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review their skincare routine with a qualified healthcare provider to be extra safe.
Isooctyl Caprylate/Caprate does not cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Still, daily sunscreen is recommended for overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Isooctyl Caprylate/Caprate vary from person to person. The following list covers potential side effects, though most users experience none of them when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild skin irritation in very sensitive individuals
- Allergic contact dermatitis for those already allergic to fatty alcohol derivatives
- Temporary acne flare-ups in highly clog-prone skin if the rest of the formula is not well balanced
- Eye stinging if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
If any discomfort or unexpected reaction occurs, stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5
Isooctyl Caprylate/Caprate is a light ester that absorbs quickly, leaving minimal residue on the skin surface. Its branched structure makes it less likely to sit in pores compared with heavier straight-chain oils, so it rarely traps debris that can spark breakouts. Because of this low tendency to clog, most formulators classify it near the bottom of the comedogenic scale.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in the majority of cases, provided the rest of the formula is also non-clogging.
Keep in mind that overall product design, concentration, and the presence of other pore-blocking ingredients will ultimately influence real-world performance.
Summary
Isooctyl Caprylate/Caprate works as an antioxidant, plasticiser, skin-conditioning agent and emollient. It shields formulas from oxidation, softens film-formers so they stay flexible, smooths skin texture and fills microscopic gaps between cells to cut moisture loss, all while feeling weightless and dry to the touch.
Its pleasant slip and non-greasy finish have earned it steady popularity in modern skincare, makeup and hair care, though it is still less mainstream than iconic silicones or caprylic/capric triglyceride.
Current research shows it to be low risk for irritation or sensitisation, with no major safety red flags at cosmetic use levels. As with any new ingredient, it is smart to perform a quick patch test when trying a product that contains it, just to be on the safe side.