What Is Isostearamidomorpholine Stearate?
Isostearamidomorpholine Stearate is a specialty ingredient created by combining fatty acids from natural oils with a ring-shaped molecule called morpholine. Chemists link isostearic acid, a branched form of stearic acid found in vegetable oils, to morpholine then neutralize the mix with stearic acid to form a stable salt. This gives the ingredient two long fatty “tails” that love oil and a small “head” that loves water, a structure that makes it useful in skincare.
The compound first appeared in the 1990s when formulators were looking for gentle cleansers that could also keep oil and water mixed. Because it is made from plant-derived fatty acids and a well-studied amine, it fit clean beauty trends and soon found its way into wash-off products and light lotions.
Manufacturing starts with plant oils such as sunflower or soybean. These oils are split to isolate isostearic and stearic acids. The isostearic acid is reacted with morpholine under controlled heat to form isostearamidomorpholine. A measured amount of stearic acid is then added to create the final salt, which is purified and milled into a fine powder or flakes.
Today you will spot Isostearamidomorpholine Stearate in facial cleansers, micellar waters, cream-to-foam masks, lightweight moisturizers, makeup removers and some sunscreen lotions where a smooth non-greasy feel is desired.
Isostearamidomorpholine Stearate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators choose this ingredient for two key reasons
- Cleansing: The molecule’s oil-loving tails latch onto dirt and makeup while the water-loving head helps them rinse away. This gives cleansers good makeup-removing power without harsh surfactants so skin feels clean not stripped
- Emulsifying: Its split personality also keeps oil and water evenly blended, stopping creams or lotions from separating. This leads to stable silky textures and longer shelf life even with fewer synthetic stabilizers
Who Can Use Isostearamidomorpholine Stearate
This ingredient is considered gentle enough for most skin types. Its lightweight, non greasy feel suits normal, combination and oily skin while the fatty acid content offers a bit of suppleness that dry or mature skin can appreciate. Extremely acne prone users may want to keep an eye on how their skin responds since any fatty derivative has a small chance of clogging pores, though reports of breakouts are rare in rinse off formulas.
Because the fatty acids are sourced from plant oils and no animal by-products are introduced during manufacture the material is acceptable for both vegetarians and vegans.
No data point to issues for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run any new skincare product past a qualified doctor to be safe.
Isostearamidomorpholine Stearate is not known to cause photosensitivity so daytime use does not require extra sun precautions beyond a good broad-spectrum sunscreen that should already be part of a routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to any cosmetic ingredient can vary from person to person. The following are potential side effects noted in rare cases. When used at the low percentages typical in finished products most users experience none of these issues.
- Mild skin irritation such as transient redness or stinging on very sensitive skin
- Contact allergy presenting as itching or small bumps in individuals already sensitized to fatty acid derivatives or amines
- Eye irritation if cleanser residue accidentally gets into the eyes during rinsing
- Comedogenic response in a small subset of highly acne prone users when used in leave-on formulations
If any discomfort or persistent reaction occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a dermatologist or healthcare provider.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2 / 5
Isostearamidomorpholine Stearate contains branched and straight chain fatty acids that can linger on the skin but it is also a salt that rinses away more easily than pure oils. This balance places it on the lower end of the pore-clogging scale yet not completely risk free for very congestion-prone users.
Most people, including those who occasionally break out, tolerate it well especially when the ingredient is in wash-off cleansers rather than leave-on creams. Individuals with severe or cystic acne may prefer to limit leave-on use.
Because this material helps dissolve makeup and excess sebum it can indirectly aid clarity in some formulas, offsetting its mild comedogenic potential.
Summary
Isostearamidomorpholine Stearate works as a gentle cleanser and a dependable emulsifier. Its dual fatty tails latch onto oils and debris while the morpholine head blends smoothly with water letting products cleanse without stripping. The same two-sided structure keeps creams and lotions from separating so textures stay light and stable.
The ingredient enjoys niche popularity in micellar waters, milky cleansers and modern lightweight lotions. It is not as common as classic surfactants or thickening waxes but formulators seeking mildness often reach for it.
Safety data show low irritation and allergen potential at typical use levels. As with any new skincare ingredient it is sensible to carry out a small patch test when trying a product that contains it to ensure personal compatibility.