Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water?

Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water is the fragrant water that remains after steam distilling the fresh blossoms, leaves and stems of the lemon balm plant Melissa officinalis. During distillation aromatic molecules and trace plant acids dissolve into the condensed steam, giving the water a gentle herbal scent as well as soothing properties. Lemon balm has been valued since ancient Greek and Roman times for its calming aroma. When steam distillation became common in the Middle Ages apothecaries started bottling the leftover water for skin refreshing lotions, and that practice has carried into modern cosmetic labs.

The process is straightforward: harvested plant matter is placed in a still, steam passes through it, volatile components rise with the vapor, then everything cools in a condenser. Essential oil floats on top for separate collection, while the aromatic water beneath is Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water. Because the plant belongs to the mint family the hydrosol contains tiny amounts of citronellal, geranial and rosmarinic acid, all known for helping comfort skin.

Today you will spot this ingredient in face mists, toners, sheet masks, light moisturizers, after-sun gels, anti-fatigue eye pads and other formulas that aim to calm or lightly hydrate the skin. Brands choose it when they want a mild botanical alternative to plain water that also adds a subtle spa-like scent.

Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Its main job in cosmetics is straightforward yet valuable: skin conditioning. By supplying trace humectants and soothing compounds, it helps keep skin feeling soft comfortable and balanced while lending a refreshing sensory experience.

Who Can Use Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water

This gentle floral water is generally well suited to all skin types, including dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin, because it is light and non-greasy. Very reactive or allergy-prone skin should still check labels for other ingredients that might cause trouble, but the hydrosol itself is typically mild.

It is plant derived with no animal by-products, so it meets vegan and vegetarian preferences. Extraction relies on steam distillation, not animal testing in most modern cosmetic lines, although shoppers who follow a strict cruelty-free lifestyle should look for a cruelty-free logo to be certain.

Pregnant or breastfeeding women usually tolerate this ingredient when applied to the skin in normal cosmetic amounts. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should ask a doctor before adding new products just to be safe.

Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it is not considered photosensitising. It also has no known conflicts with common actives like retinol or vitamin C, which means it layers well in most routines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Everyone’s skin is different so reactions to Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water can vary. The following list covers potential side effects, but most people will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild redness or stinging – may occur on very sensitive or compromised skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis – rare but possible if someone is allergic to lemon balm or mint family plants
  • Eye irritation – if the product accidentally gets into the eyes

If any discomfort, rash or swelling develops stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water is essentially purified water infused with trace aromatic molecules so it contains no heavy oils waxes or fatty acids that can block pores. Because its composition is almost entirely water the chance of it trapping sebum or dead cells inside follicles is negligible.

This makes the ingredient suitable for those who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts.

One point to keep in mind is that some formulas pair lemon balm water with richer emollients or occlusive agents; in such cases the overall product, not the hydrosol itself, could influence breakouts.

Summary

Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water acts mainly as a skin conditioning agent by delivering light hydration and soothing compounds while adding a soft herbal aroma. The water base refreshes the skin surface and the minute amounts of citronellal geranial and rosmarinic acid help calm feelings of tightness or irritation.

The ingredient enjoys modest popularity, especially within natural and clean beauty lines that favor botanical waters over plain distilled water. It is not as common as rose or lavender hydrosols yet it appears regularly in toners face mists and after-sun products that aim for a gentle spa-like feel.

Overall safety is high with very few reports of adverse reactions. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product containing Melissa Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Water before applying it more broadly.

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