What Is Methylsalicylatyl Glycyrrhetinate?
Methylsalicylatyl Glycyrrhetinate is a specialty ester that joins two well known plant molecules: glycyrrhetinic acid from licorice root and methyl salicylate found in wintergreen leaves. The combination produces a fat-soluble ingredient that blends smoothly into cosmetic oils and creams. First explored in the 1990s by laboratories looking to upgrade the soothing traits of licorice, it quickly found a place in skin care because the ester form is more stable and better absorbed than raw licorice extracts.
The ingredient is made through an esterification process where purified glycyrrhetinic acid reacts with methyl salicylate under controlled heat. After the reaction, the mixture is cooled, washed and filtered to remove unwanted by-products, then dried into a fine powder or viscous liquid depending on the grade needed by manufacturers.
Because it dissolves easily in oils, formulators add it to rich face creams, anti-aging serums, after-sun lotions, sheet masks and targeted spot treatments that aim to calm the look of irritated skin while keeping it soft.
Methylsalicylatyl Glycyrrhetinate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is prized mainly for one role in skin care formulations.
Skin conditioning: It helps keep the outer layer of skin feeling smooth, flexible and comfortable. By reinforcing the skin’s natural moisture barrier it can reduce a tight or flaky sensation and leave the surface looking healthier and more even toned.
Who Can Use Methylsalicylatyl Glycyrrhetinate
This conditioning ester is gentle enough for most skin types. Dry, normal and combination skin usually welcome its barrier loving qualities while sensitive skin often appreciates the calming feel that comes from its licorice lineage. Very oily or acne prone users may want to check how it is paired with other ingredients since rich, oil based formulas could feel heavy.
The compound is produced from plant sources and no animal derivatives or by products are required during synthesis so it is considered suitable for both vegetarians and vegans.
No published data flags the ingredient as unsafe for those who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should show their doctor the full ingredient list of any skincare they plan to use.
Methylsalicylatyl Glycyrrhetinate is not known to cause photosensitivity. Routine daytime sunscreen use is still recommended for overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Methylsalicylatyl Glycyrrhetinate differ from person to person. The points below highlight potential side effects yet most people will not experience them when the ingredient is correctly formulated in a product.
- Mild redness or stinging especially on very sensitive skin or when applied to freshly exfoliated areas
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals with a known salicylate or licorice allergy
- Increased oiliness if the product base is overly rich for oily skin types
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally drifts into the eye area
If any unwanted reaction occurs discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Methylsalicylatyl Glycyrrhetinate is an ester that stays lightweight in most finished formulas and is typically used at low percentages, so it rarely blocks pores. Its oil solubility means it sits within the product’s oily phase yet its molecular size is modest and it spreads easily, limiting the chance of buildup inside follicles.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases, though the overall richness of the final product matters more than the ingredient itself.
No data suggests it worsens blackheads or whiteheads, and it is often paired with non greasy emollients to keep textures light.
Summary
Methylsalicylatyl Glycyrrhetinate is a plant-derived conditioning agent that softens skin, supports the moisture barrier and lends a calming feel thanks to its licorice root backbone. It works by dissolving into the lipid layer where it reinforces surface oils, reducing transepidermal water loss and easing the look of irritation.
Although not a household name, it enjoys quiet popularity among niche brands that focus on gentle barrier care and post-sun soothing formulas. Larger mass market lines use it less often, mainly because licorice alternatives such as dipotassium glycyrrhizate are cheaper and more widely available.
Current safety data is favorable with low reports of irritation or sensitization. Still, skin is personal so try a small patch of any new product containing Methylsalicylatyl Glycyrrhetinate before full-face use to confirm compatibility.