What Is Myristoyl Dipeptide-12 Amide?
Myristoyl Dipeptide-12 Amide is a lab-crafted molecule made by joining myristic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut oil and nutmeg, with a tiny chain of two amino acids known as Dipeptide-12. The link at the end of the peptide is capped with an amide, which helps keep the whole structure stable when mixed into creams or serums. Peptide-fatty acid hybrids like this started gaining attention in the 2000s as brands looked for gentle alternatives to traditional preservatives. Today the ingredient is produced through a controlled reaction where the peptide is first built by solid-phase synthesis, then bonded to myristic acid, purified and dried into a fine powder. You will most often see Myristoyl Dipeptide-12 Amide in leave-on products such as moisturizers, anti-aging lotions, sheet masks and eye creams where brands want a light yet effective way to keep formulas fresh.
Myristoyl Dipeptide-12 Amide’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient’s main job in skincare is straightforward
As an antimicrobial it helps curb the growth of unwanted bacteria and yeast in a product, which keeps the formula safe for use and can extend its shelf life without relying on harsher preservatives.
Who Can Use Myristoyl Dipeptide-12 Amide
This peptide-fatty acid blend is considered gentle enough for most skin types including dry skin, oily skin and combination skin. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it well because it is used at low concentrations and has a low irritation profile. There are no reports suggesting it is unsuitable for darker skin tones or specific ethnic groups.
The raw materials are synthesized in a lab without animal-derived inputs, which makes the ingredient vegan and vegetarian friendly as long as the finished formula also avoids animal by-products.
No data indicate that topical use poses a risk to pregnant or breastfeeding women, but this is not medical advice; anyone who is expecting or nursing should review all skincare products with their physician to be sure they suit personal health needs.
Myristoyl Dipeptide-12 Amide does not absorb UV light or make skin more vulnerable to sunburn so it is not considered photosensitizing. It also plays well alongside common actives such as vitamin C or retinoids, adding preservative support without affecting their performance.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Myristoyl Dipeptide-12 Amide differ from one person to another. The points below list potential but uncommon effects; when the ingredient is used correctly most people will experience none of these issues.
- Mild redness or stinging – usually temporary and linked to very sensitive or compromised skin barriers
- Allergic contact dermatitis – rare, but possible in individuals with specific peptide or fatty acid sensitivities
- Interaction with other preservatives – in poorly formulated products the combination of multiple antimicrobial agents might heighten irritation potential
- Eye irritation – if a high concentration migrates into the eyes it can cause watering and discomfort
If any irritation, swelling or persistent discomfort occurs stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5
Although the molecule carries a myristic acid tail, the fatty acid is bonded to a peptide and is present at very low levels, which sharply reduces the greasy film normally linked to pore blockage. Current lab and brand data show no meaningful rise in comedones when the ingredient is used in leave-on products. It should therefore be fine for skin that breaks out easily, provided the rest of the formula is also lightweight and non-occlusive. Keep in mind that overall texture, additional oils and personal skin chemistry can still influence whether a product feels heavy or clogging.
Summary
Myristoyl Dipeptide-12 Amide acts mainly as a gentle antimicrobial that keeps skincare formulas fresh by limiting bacterial and yeast growth. It does this through a dual nature: the fatty acid portion can disrupt microbe membranes while the peptide chain helps it stay water-compatible and stable in a wide pH range.
The ingredient is still a niche pick compared with big-name preservatives like phenoxyethanol but its popularity is slowly rising among brands focused on mild or minimalist formulas.
Most safety reviews place it in a low-risk category with rare reports of irritation or allergy. Even so, skin is personal so it is always wise to patch test any new product that lists Myristoyl Dipeptide-12 Amide high in the ingredient deck before applying it to the entire face.