What Is Myristoyl Pullulan?
Myristoyl Pullulan is a specialty polymer created when pullulan, a naturally occurring sugar-based molecule from fermented starch, is treated with myristoyl chloride, a fatty acid derivative sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil. The pairing of the sugar backbone with a lightweight fatty chain produces a material that is both water friendly and oil friendly, making it easy to spread and quick to form a flexible film on skin or hair.
The ingredient first appeared in hair sprays and setting lotions in the early 2000s when formulators were searching for plant based alternatives to older synthetic resins. Pullulan had already gained attention for use in edible films and breath strips, so chemists adapted it for beauty products by attaching the myristoyl group, which improves water resistance and hold.
Production involves dissolving purified pullulan in a solvent, adding myristoyl chloride under controlled temperature then neutralizing and washing the mixture to remove any leftover salts or reagents. The result is a fine powder that disperses in water or alcohol for easy incorporation into cosmetics.
Today you will most commonly find Myristoyl Pullulan in lightweight hair sprays, mousse, styling creams, anti-frizz serums, sheet masks, leave-on facial treatments and some long-wear makeup primers where a breathable film is desired.
Myristoyl Pullulan’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Below is a quick look at why formulators reach for this versatile ingredient.
- Film forming: Creates an invisible yet flexible layer that locks in moisture, smooths surface texture and helps other actives stay put for longer wear
- Hair fixing: Provides soft hold in sprays, gels and mousses so styles keep their shape without stiffness or flaking
- Hair waving or straightening: Helps set the hair fiber during heat styling or chemical relaxing procedures, supporting a uniform wave or sleek finish while adding a light protective coating
Who Can Use Myristoyl Pullulan
Thanks to its lightweight film and balanced water oil affinity, Myristoyl Pullulan works for most skin and hair types including oily, dry, combination and sensitive. It is non-occlusive so it rarely traps oil or sweat, which means acne-prone users generally tolerate it well. People with very dry or compromised skin may want to pair it with richer emollients because the ingredient itself does not add heavy moisture.
The raw materials are derived from plant starch and plant oils with no animal byproducts, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Manufacturers often certify the pullulan portion as non-GMO and sustainably sourced, though this can vary by brand.
No specific warnings exist for topical use during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Current safety assessments have not flagged it for hormonal interference or systemic absorption. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full product ingredient list to a healthcare professional before use to be safe.
Myristoyl Pullulan does not increase photosensitivity and has no known interaction with UV filters or self-tanners. It is also fragrance-free and gluten-free, which benefits users with those sensitivities.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Myristoyl Pullulan differ from person to person. The following list outlines potential side effects only; most people will not notice any problems when the ingredient is used at cosmetic levels in a well-formulated product.
- Mild skin irritation – rare itching or redness, more likely if the product also contains high levels of alcohol
- Contact dermatitis – very uncommon allergy to pullulan or residual processing agents
- Build-up on hair – possible dullness if used daily without clarifying shampoos, especially on fine hair
- Eye irritation – stinging if aerosol sprays drift into the eyes during application
If any discomfort, rash or persistent build-up occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 (very low)
Myristoyl Pullulan sits on the skin as a light breathable film that allows water vapor to pass through instead of clogging pores. It is a large polymer that does not readily sink into follicles and it lacks heavy oils or waxes often linked to breakouts. Because of this, most formulators consider it close to non-comedogenic although extremely acne-sensitive users could still react if a product layers the ingredient with richer occlusives.
Bottom line: generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
Extra note: comedogenicity can change with the overall formula, so pairing Myristoyl Pullulan with high levels of coconut oil or butters may raise the pore-clogging risk.
Summary
Myristoyl Pullulan acts primarily as a film former, hair fixer and styling aid. The pullulan backbone clings to surfaces while the lightweight myristoyl chain adds flexibility and water resistance. Together they create an invisible mesh that locks down flyaways, prolongs makeup wear and offers a soft protective coating without stiffness.
The ingredient is popular in modern clean-beauty hair sprays and certain long-wear skin primers but it is still a niche choice compared with classic synthetic resins. Brands that highlight plant-derived or vegan claims use it most often.
Current safety data shows low irritation and virtually no systemic absorption making it a low-risk pick for daily use. As with any new cosmetic, it is wise to patch test first to rule out individual sensitivities.