What Is Myristyl Aspartic Acid?
Myristyl Aspartic Acid is a hybrid molecule that joins L-aspartic acid, a naturally occurring amino acid, with a 14-carbon fatty alcohol called myristyl alcohol. The result is a gentle surfactant that has both water-loving and oil-loving parts, allowing it to lift away dirt and oils without stripping the skin. The myristyl portion is usually sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil while the aspartic acid can be obtained by fermenting plant sugars. Manufacturers create the ingredient through an amidation step that bonds the fatty chain to the amino acid under controlled heat and pH, followed by purification to remove excess reagents.
Interest in amino acid–based surfactants began in the early 2000s as brands searched for milder, more biodegradable alternatives to sulfate cleansers. Myristyl Aspartic Acid gained traction because it offers effective cleansing with a soft skin feel and a favorable safety profile. Today you will spot it in facial cleansers, micellar waters, foaming gels, shampoo bars, body washes, makeup removers and even some cream-to-foam masks.
Myristyl Aspartic Acid’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators rely on Myristyl Aspartic Acid mainly for its cleansing action which brings several advantages to a product.
As a cleansing agent it lowers the surface tension of water so oils, sunscreen, makeup and everyday grime can be rinsed away more easily. It produces a soft low-to-medium foam that feels silky rather than squeaky, helping the skin keep its natural moisture barrier. The amino acid backbone also makes the surfactant readily biodegradable supporting eco-conscious product claims.
Who Can Use Myristyl Aspartic Acid
This mild surfactant tends to agree with all major skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin because it cleans without aggressive stripping. People with very reactive or eczema-prone skin usually tolerate it better than sulfates, though any new cleanser can still cause issues if the overall formula contains other irritants.
The ingredient itself is suitable for vegans and vegetarians when the myristyl alcohol is sourced from coconut or palm rather than animal fats. Most reputable suppliers use plant sources, but checking brand information or certifications can offer extra peace of mind.
No data suggest that topical Myristyl Aspartic Acid poses a risk to women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review their skincare routine with a qualified healthcare provider.
The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it is not considered photosensitising. It also has no known interactions with common active ingredients like retinoids, vitamin C or AHAs, making it easy to slot into most regimens.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
- Mild stinging or redness on very sensitive skin
- Transient dryness if used in a high percentage or paired with overly hot water
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to fatty alcohol derivatives
- Eye irritation if the cleanser gets into the eyes
If any of these effects occur discontinue use and seek medical advice if symptoms persist or worsen.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Myristyl Aspartic Acid sits low on the comedogenic scale because it is used primarily as a rinse-off surfactant rather than an occlusive oil. Its amino acid portion keeps the molecule water friendly which limits the chance of it clogging pores. The 14-carbon tail is short enough that it rarely builds up on skin, especially when washed away after cleansing. For these reasons it is generally considered suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.
As with most mild surfactants, any pore clogging risk rises only if the ingredient appears in a rich leave-on formula, which is uncommon.
Summary
Myristyl Aspartic Acid is a gentle, biodegradable surfactant that lifts away dirt, oil and makeup while helping skin hold onto its natural moisture. It does this by pairing an oil-loving fatty chain with a water-loving amino acid head, letting it emulsify grime so it rinses off easily.
Although not a headline ingredient, it is gaining steady popularity in modern cleansers, micellar waters and low-foam shampoos because consumers want sulfate-free options that still feel satisfying.
Safety data show a low irritation profile, and allergic reactions are rare. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to perform a quick patch test before full use to make sure your skin agrees with it.