Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate?

Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate is a synthesized compound that combines niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3 prized for its skin soothing qualities, with hydroxycitrate, a derivative of citric acid found naturally in certain tropical fruits. The resulting molecule, known scientifically as 3-Pyridinecarboxamide dihydrogen 1,2-dihydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylate, brings together the water loving nature of niacinamide and the gentle exfoliating profile of hydroxycitrate.

The ingredient emerged in the early 2010s when formulators looked for ways to boost the stability and performance of niacinamide in leave-on products. By linking it to hydroxycitrate they created a salt that dissolves readily in water based systems, tolerates a wider pH range and remains active longer on the skin. Manufacturing typically involves reacting niacinamide with citric acid under controlled pH, then purifying the resulting crystals to cosmetic grade standards.

Thanks to its versatility Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate appears in a range of products such as lightweight serums, daily moisturizers, sheet masks, overnight creams, brightening essences and anti-aging spot treatments. Brands choose it when they want the proven benefits of niacinamide with an added dose of gentle surface renewal from the citrate portion.

Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators rely on Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate mainly for its skin conditioning power which translates into multiple visible benefits for users. Acting as a conditioning agent it helps strengthen the skin barrier, smooth rough patches, improve moisture retention and soften the overall feel of the complexion. Regular use can leave skin looking more even toned and supple. Its mild exfoliating sidekick, hydroxycitrate, can also encourage a fresher appearance without the sting often associated with stronger acids.

Who Can Use Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate

This ingredient suits most skin types including oily, dry, combination and sensitive skin because it balances moisture without heavy oils and delivers gentle exfoliation that rarely stings. Extremely reactive or compromised skin should introduce it slowly since any acid derivative can cause a brief tingle.

Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate is made through a laboratory process that uses plant derived citric acid and vitamin B3 so it contains no animal material. It is therefore appropriate for vegans and vegetarians.

Current research shows no direct risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women when using niacinamide based products at normal cosmetic levels. Still, this text is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should ask a doctor before adding new skincare just to be safe.

The molecule does not increase photosensitivity. Standard daytime sun protection remains a good idea for overall skin health but extra precautions are not needed solely because of this ingredient.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate differ from person to person. The points below cover possible issues yet most users will not notice any problems when the product is well formulated.

  • Mild redness or warmth
  • Transient tingling or stinging on application
  • Dry or flaky patches if formula is overused
  • Itching or small bumps in those with very sensitive skin
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis leading to swelling or rash
  • Increased irritation when layered with strong acids or retinoids

If any of these effects appear and persist stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate is entirely water soluble and leaves no oily residue, so it does not clog pores or trap sebum. Neither niacinamide nor hydroxycitrate has a history of causing comedones in clinical or consumer settings.

Suitable for acne-prone and breakout-prone skin.

Because the ingredient is often paired with lightweight gels and serums, the finished product texture also tends to stay friendly to congested complexions.

Summary

Niacinamide Hydroxycitrate conditions skin by reinforcing the moisture barrier, smoothing texture and providing a whisper of surface renewal from its citrate side. It delivers the familiar benefits of niacinamide while remaining stable in a wider range of formulas, which makes it attractive to formulators seeking an easy-to-use multitasker.

Although it is not yet a household name, it is gaining traction in modern serums and overnight masks aimed at gentle brightening and barrier care.

Overall safety is high, with most users experiencing no irritation when products are properly formulated. As with any new skincare item, perform a small patch test to ensure personal compatibility before full use.

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