What Is Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23?
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is a lab-made compound that joins niacin, better known as vitamin B3, with a short chain of two amino acids called dipeptide-23. By linking these two building blocks scientists create a small, skin-friendly molecule that can deliver the perks of both parts. First explored in the early 2000s when peptide research surged in the beauty world, it quickly found a place in formulas aimed at smoother, stronger looking skin. The ingredient is produced through controlled peptide synthesis followed by a reaction that attaches the niacin segment. Because this is done in a lab setting the final powder is highly pure and consistent, which is key for sensitive skin products. You will most often spot Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 in lightweight serums, anti-aging creams, eye gels, sheet masks and targeted spot treatments where brands want to boost skin conditioning without using heavy oils.
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is prized for one main role in skincare:
Skin conditioning: Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 helps keep the skin surface soft, supple and well hydrated. By supporting the skin barrier it can improve overall texture, reduce the appearance of rough patches and give a healthier glow, making the finished product feel more luxurious while delivering visible comfort.
Who Can Use Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is gentle enough for most skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and even sensitive complexions because it is lightweight and free from heavy oils or added fragrance. Those with very reactive or inflamed skin conditions should still proceed cautiously as any new active could trigger irritation but there are no blanket restrictions tied to this ingredient alone.
The compound is synthesized entirely in a lab, meaning no animal-derived materials are required, so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. Cruelty-free status will depend on the overall brand policy and regional testing laws, not the peptide itself.
Current research shows no specific risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is used topically in standard cosmetic concentrations. That said this is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run their skincare routine past a healthcare professional to be safe.
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it can be used morning or night without increasing the chance of sunburn. Standard daily sunscreen is still recommended for overall skin health.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Skin responses to Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 differ from person to person. The points below cover potential effects and most users will not notice any of them when the ingredient is correctly formulated into a product.
- Mild redness or warmth especially in very fair or sensitive skin because niacin derivatives can occasionally promote surface circulation
- Temporary tingling or stinging right after application which typically subsides within minutes
- Dryness or tight feeling if the rest of the formula lacks adequate moisturizers for your skin type
- Itchiness or rash in rare cases of sensitivity to niacin or peptide structures
- Contact dermatitis if combined with other irritants like high concentrations of acids or alcohol
If any discomfort persists or worsens stop using the product and seek medical guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 / 5 – Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is a water-soluble peptide-vitamin compound with no oily residues or waxy fillers, so it does not clog pores on its own. It sits lightly on the skin, absorbs quickly and is usually added at low concentrations that pose little risk of blocking follicles. This makes it a good option for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. As always, the overall formula can influence pore-clogging potential, so look at the full ingredient list if congestion is a concern.
Summary
Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is mainly a skin-conditioning agent that helps keep the surface smooth, hydrated and comfortable. By pairing niacin with a short peptide it supports the skin barrier, encourages a softer texture and lends a healthy looking glow without heaviness.
While not the most talked-about peptide in mainstream beauty circles it appears in a growing number of targeted serums and eye treatments where brands want gentle conditioning benefits without greasy emollients.
Overall safety is high with low irritation and zero comedogenic risk noted in standard cosmetic use. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so patch testing any new product that contains Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23 is a smart precaution.