Oligopeptide-45: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 30, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Oligopeptide-45?

Oligopeptide-45 is a lab made chain of 14 amino acids that include alanine, arginine, cysteine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, leucine, tyrosine and valine. These building blocks are the same molecules found naturally in skin proteins, but in this case chemists link them together in a specific sequence to target skin care needs.

The peptide first caught the eye of cosmetic researchers in the early 2000s while scientists were studying how short amino acid chains can signal skin cells to act younger. Seeing its potential, brands began adding it to premium anti-aging blends and the ingredient has slowly moved into more mainstream products.

Production starts with solid-phase peptide synthesis, a step-by-step method where each amino acid is added in the right order on a resin bead. After all 14 units are in place the chain is released, purified and tested for quality before it is mixed into formulations.

Today you are most likely to find Oligopeptide-45 in wrinkle minimising serums, firming eye creams, overnight masks, concentrated ampoules and high performance moisturizers that promise smoother looking skin.

Oligopeptide-45’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators reach for Oligopeptide-45 mainly because it is a dependable skin conditioning agent that helps skin feel and look better.

As a skin conditioning ingredient, Oligopeptide-45 supports the skin’s natural repair process, encourages a plumper appearance and improves overall softness. By doing so it can reduce the visible signs of fatigue, fine lines and uneven texture making the complexion appear healthier and more vibrant.

Who Can Use Oligopeptide-45

Oligopeptide-45 is generally considered friendly for all skin types including dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin because it is lightweight and non-greasy. Those with very reactive or allergy-prone skin should still check the full ingredient list of the finished product in case other additives are troublesome, but the peptide itself is not known to clog pores or trigger excess oil.

The ingredient is synthetic and made without any animal-derived materials so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

Current data shows no link between topical Oligopeptide-45 and problems in pregnancy or while breastfeeding. For peace of mind this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review any skin care product with a qualified health professional.

Oligopeptide-45 does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so it is safe for daytime use. Normal daily sunscreen habits should still be followed for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to any cosmetic ingredient can differ from one person to the next. The points below outline potential but uncommon effects linked to the topical use of Oligopeptide-45 when it is included in a properly formulated product.

  • Mild redness or warmth
  • Temporary itching or tingling
  • Stinging when applied to broken or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals with a specific peptide allergy

If you notice any unexpected irritation or discomfort stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Oligopeptide-45 is a tiny water-soluble molecule that does not leave an oily film or sit in pores, which keeps it from blocking follicles and sparking breakouts. Because it is typically added at low concentrations in lightweight serums or creams, the chance of it acting as a pore-clogger is virtually nil. Those prone to acne can comfortably use products featuring this peptide as long as the rest of the formula is also non-comodogenic. If irritation or pimples appear it is usually due to heavier oils, waxes or silicones in the finished product rather than the peptide itself.

Summary

Oligopeptide-45’s main role is skin conditioning. By mimicking the natural signaling peptides found in healthy skin it nudges cells to boost repair, hold moisture better and maintain a smoother surface, which translates to a plumper and more refreshed look. While the ingredient is still a niche addition compared to household names like hyaluronic acid, it is gaining traction in high performance anti-aging lines and is slowly working its way into mid-range products as formulation costs drop.

Current research and real-world use show it to be very safe for most people with low risk of irritation, no photosensitivity and no known hormonal effects. As with any new skin care ingredient it is smart to perform a quick patch test when trying a product that contains Oligopeptide-45 to be sure your skin agrees with the full formula.

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