What Is Oligopeptide-87?
Oligopeptide-87 is a lab made chain of 12 amino acids built from arginine, glutamic acid, histidine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine, tyrosine and valine. Because it is synthetic, scientists can control its purity and stability, making it a dependable ingredient for modern skin care.
The peptide was first explored in the early 2000s when researchers noticed that short amino acid chains could signal the skin to look and feel healthier. As demand grew for gentle age support alternatives, Oligopeptide-87 found its way from research labs into cosmetic labs, where formulators tested it in creams and serums. Its success in early prototype products led to wider commercial use.
Manufacturing relies on a method called solid phase peptide synthesis. Each amino acid is added one at a time to a growing chain fixed on a resin bead, rinsed, then capped to prevent mistakes. When the 12 amino acids are in place, chemists split the finished peptide from the resin, purify it with filtration and drying, then deliver it as a white powder ready for blending into formulas.
You will most often spot Oligopeptide-87 in lightweight serums, anti aging moisturizers, sheet masks, eye treatments and even soothing post peel gels. Its small size helps it sit comfortably on the skin surface where it can do its job without leaving a heavy feel.
Oligopeptide-87’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skin care formulas Oligopeptide-87 serves a single but important role: skin conditioning. By supporting the skin’s natural barrier and attracting water, it helps the surface stay smooth, soft and flexible. Regular use can lead to a healthier looking complexion that feels hydrated and calm.
Who Can Use Oligopeptide-87
Because it is gentle and non greasy, Oligopeptide-87 suits nearly every skin type including dry, normal, oily, combination and sensitive skin. Its primary job is to condition and hydrate rather than exfoliate or clog so very few people need to avoid it. Those with a history of peptide allergies should proceed with caution but such cases are extremely rare.
The peptide is made entirely in a lab without any animal derived materials so it is appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. Manufacturing involves synthetic amino acids and no animal testing is required for registration in many regions, although individual brand policies can differ.
Current research shows no specific concerns for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Oligopeptide-87 is used topically. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should ask a doctor before adding new products, just to be safe.
Oligopeptide-87 does not trigger photosensitivity so there is no need to alter sun protection habits beyond normal daily SPF use. It is also compatible with most common skincare actives such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and gentle retinoids, making it easy to slot into an existing routine.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Oligopeptide-87 can vary from person to person. The following list covers potential side effects yet most users will never experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild redness or warmth at the application site
- Temporary itching or tingling as the product absorbs
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to peptides or a formula’s other ingredients
- Increased absorption of other actives if used alongside strong exfoliants which could indirectly raise irritation risk
If any of these reactions occur stop use immediately and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0 (non-comedogenic). Oligopeptide-87 is a small, water-soluble peptide that does not leave an oily film or block pores, so it earns the lowest possible score on the comedogenic scale. It sits on the skin surface, conditions, then rinses away easily without contributing to buildup. This makes it perfectly suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts. If a formula containing the peptide does trigger blemishes the cause is likely another ingredient such as heavy oils or waxes, not Oligopeptide-87 itself.
Summary
Oligopeptide-87 serves mainly as a skin-conditioning agent that helps keep the barrier smooth, hydrated and comfortable. Its chain of 12 amino acids attracts water and signals the surface to retain moisture, which in turn leaves skin feeling soft and looking healthier. Though effective it remains a niche peptide, appearing in select serums, eye creams and soothing gels rather than dominating shelves like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide. Safety data show it is gentle for almost all skin types with minimal risk of irritation or clogging. As with any new skincare product it is wise to perform a quick patch test before full application just to be sure your skin agrees with the complete formula.