Paecilomyces Japonica/Saussurea Involucrata Ferment Extract Filtrate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: July 1, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Paecilomyces Japonica/Saussurea Involucrata Ferment Extract Filtrate?

Paecilomyces Japonica/Saussurea Involucrata Ferment Extract Filtrate is derived from the snow lotus plant, Saussurea involucrata, a hardy alpine flower valued in traditional beauty rituals for its resilience and antioxidant richness. Cosmetic chemists take an extract of this plant and ferment it using Paecilomyces japonica, a beneficial fungus already popular in Asian herbal fermentation. During fermentation the microorganism breaks down large plant molecules into smaller, more skin friendly compounds while producing its own set of peptides, amino acids and polysaccharides. After fermentation the mixture is carefully filtered to remove any remaining solids, leaving a clear, lightweight filtrate packed with skin soothing nutrients.

The ingredient gained traction in Korean skin care labs looking for gentler, bioactive alternatives to standard plant extracts. Its success in early brightening essences and anti aging serums quickly spread to global brands that now add the filtrate to sheet masks, hydrating gels, daily moisturizers and treatment ampoules aimed at tired or sensitive skin.

Paecilomyces Japonica/Saussurea Involucrata Ferment Extract Filtrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ferment based ingredient is valued for one primary role in formulas.

Skin conditioning: The filtrate supplies moisture binding sugars, barrier supportive amino acids and natural antioxidants that help skin feel smoother, look more supple and recover more quickly from daily stress. It can also enhance the overall sensorial feel of a product, giving lightweight formulas a soft, silky finish.

Who Can Use Paecilomyces Japonica/Saussurea Involucrata Ferment Extract Filtrate

This ferment filtrate is generally considered friendly for all skin types, including dry, normal, combination and oily. Its lightweight texture and soothing profile make it especially appealing to sensitive or easily dehydrated skin. Those prone to fungal acne may want to monitor their skin closely since the ingredient is produced with a fungus, though current evidence does not show it feeds Malassezia on the skin.

The extract is sourced from a plant and a non-animal microorganism, so it fits comfortably within vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.

No specific concerns have been raised for pregnant or breastfeeding women. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should show the full product list to a qualified doctor before use just to be safe.

The filtrate is not known to cause photosensitivity and can be used morning or night without increasing sun sensitivity. It also plays well with most common actives such as niacinamide, peptides and hyaluronic acid.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Paecilomyces Japonica/Saussurea Involucrata Ferment Extract Filtrate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects, though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Redness or mild stinging in very reactive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis for individuals sensitive to mushroom or plant ferment by-products
  • Rare clogged pores or pustules in users highly susceptible to fungal acne
  • Eye irritation if the product migrates into the eyes

If any irritation or unusual reaction occurs stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 out of 5

This filtrate is mostly water based and contains very little oil or wax so it is unlikely to block pores. The fermentation process also breaks complex plant material into lightweight molecules that rinse or absorb easily, further lowering the chance of buildup. A rating of 1 reflects this low occlusive profile while still allowing for rare cases of congestion in people extremely sensitive to ferments.

Because of its low rating it is generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, though individual responses can vary.

No specific data suggests that the ingredient feeds the yeast linked to fungal acne but users in that group should still watch their skin for changes.

Summary

Paecilomyces Japonica/Saussurea Involucrata Ferment Extract Filtrate works mainly as a skin conditioning agent by delivering moisture binding sugars, calming amino acids and natural antioxidants created during fermentation. These components help skin stay hydrated look smoother and bounce back from daily stress.

Right now the ingredient sits in the “rising star” category. It enjoys steady popularity in Korean and indie formulations yet it has not reached the same global fame as hyaluronic acid or niacinamide. As more brands look for gentle biotech actives its presence is likely to grow.

Overall safety data is reassuring with low irritancy and a very low comedogenic score. Still every skin is unique so doing a quick patch test when trying a new product containing this filtrate is a smart move.

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